Retinol is an ingredient that promises big things – one of the few anti-ageing ingredients with actual science backing it up, it brightens, increases cell turnover, improves texture, reduces scarring and improves the appearance of fine lines.
But it can also sound daunting as some people find it causes irritation, dryness, redness and peeling, and then there’s confusion over strengths and different types.
The first question you may find yourself asking as a retinol first-timer is whether you’re old enough to need it. The answer is that collagen production slows after the age of 20, so if you’re over that age, you may benefit from a product that boosts it. Even if you’re not seeing major signs of ageing yet, such as fine lines, retinol use can be preventative. At the other end of the scale, you’re never too old to see positive effects from skincare.
If you start shopping around for a retinol product, you may also find the term “retinoid” used almost interchangeably with retinol. In fact, retinoid is the umbrella term for a group of ingredients derived from vitamin A, including retinol. Retinoic acid (also known as tretinoin) is the prescription-strength variant available in the UK. Gentler formulas, available over the counter, contain forms of retinoid that need to be converted into retinoic acid by your skin in order to have an effect; the more conversions required, the weaker the impact on skin.
There are many other variations of retinoid, but to explain those included in products we’ve picked, the next level down from prescription retinoic acid in terms of strength is hydroxypinacolone retinoate, followed by retinol (the most commonly sold form in the UK) and, lastly, retinol esters such as retinyl palmitate. The actual percentage listed may be weaker by the time it’s effective on the skin, thanks to the conversion.
You’ll also find that retinol products come in different forms, most often a cream or a serum. If you’re nervous about using retinol for the first time or have sensitive skin, we recommend using a cream, as it acts as a kind of buffer to soothe, hydrate and cool any irritation on application. If you want to jump straight in, a serum can penetrate the skin more quickly and effectively.
The other key variation is percentage. Many brands don’t actually list a percentage, and it isn’t the most accurate indication of strength; other factors, including the type of retinoid and the conversions required, and its formulation (such as using a cream), change a product’s impact on the skin.
Among those brands that do list a retinol percentage, beginners may like to start with a retinol in the 0.25-0.5 per cent range, but bear in mind that some listed above 0.5 per cent may have a gentler impact than the percentage suggests.
For brands that don’t, you can make a good estimate based on how high up the retinol comes in the list of ingredients (as a general rule, the lower it is, the lower the percentage). All the products we’ve listed below are safe for first-time users.
Just as important as which product you choose is how you apply it. Retinols can increase your skin’s sensitivity to sunlight, so always apply at night and use an SPF during the day (which we hope you’re doing already!).
They’re most effective when applied to clean skin, after cleansing and toning, before you follow up with any other creams or oils. Each person’s skin will react differently to retinols: some may find they experience no irritation whatsoever, others may find it dry, tight or even red and peeling after application.
Almost everyone can build up tolerance to retinol over time, so any negative side effects should subside with two to four weeks of consistent application. Start with two or three nights a week, and build it up to more frequent use. If the irritation only gets worse, stop using the product.
All the retinols we recommend for beginners have been tested by just that – beginners. They’ve looked for long-term improvements in their skin and any negative side effects, as well as factors that affected their experience, such as packaging and how the product felt on the skin on first application.
You can trust our independent reviews. We may earn commission from some of the retailers, but we never allow this to influence selections, which are formed from real-world testing and expert advice. This revenue helps to fund journalism across The Independent.
Skinceuticals retinol 0.3%
A very straightforward, gentle percentage, pure retinol cream, with a nice short list of ingredients and few others of note, this is suitable for even the fussiest of complexions. In testing, it visibly improved the appearance of acne scarring, as well as creating a glowier, brighter and firmer-feeling complexion. It’s a simple, reliably good formula that we think everyone will get along with.
Buy now £65.00, Look Fantastic
Alpha H vitamin A 0.5%
In a world of confusing and misleading branding, we love Alpha H’s Vitamin A for its title alone: this is a mix of retinol and retinyl propionate both at 0.25 per cent, meaning an overarching name such as Vitamin A is accurate. Our tester found that her skin “immediately felt smoother and firmer” and she noticed a difference in texture across her forehead and chin in particular. On the whole, she experienced no stinging or irritation, but she did stop use temporarily because of an eczema flare-up, so it might be best avoided by those with very sensitive skin.
Buy now £39.00, Cult Beauty
Beauty Pie super retinol ceramide-boosting anti-ageing face serum
This is a really long and complicated name for a very simple product. It contains a 3 per cent retinol complex that, according to Beauty Pie, works at 0.09 per cent on the skin. It’s a cream formula, which makes it more gentle on the skin, and it also contains hydrating hyaluronic acid and squalane, which help minimise any irritation at the source. Our tester found that her skin was noticeably softer, smoother, better hydrated and brighter. We wouldn’t pay £80 for it, but at the Beauty Pie member price (£13.01) it’s a very affordable, simple and effective place to start.
Buy now £80.00, Beauty Pie
The Ordinary Granactive retinoid 2% in squalane
The Ordinary stocks a considerable range of retinols, but we recommend you start here. Granactive retinoid is the name of a hydroxypinacolone retinoate as formulated by Grant Industries and is considered to offer results without the irritation sometimes associated with retinol. Here it is mixed with a buffer in the form of the highly moisturising squalane, to make application even more comfortable. There is also a 5 per cent version of the formula for when you want to up your dose.
Buy now £5.80, The Ordinary
Indeed Labs retinol reface skin resurfacer
Indeed Labs repeatedly produces effective but affordable formulas, and this is no different. The brand hasn’t disclosed what retinol percentage it contains, and our tester thought that the packaging definitely looks like a budget product, but “the product itself performs better than the packaging suggests”. It is smooth and silky on application and improves texture and pigmentation over time. Most importantly, our tester noted no irritation despite her usually sensitive skin.
Buy now £13.33, Boots
Votary intense night oil rosehip and retinoid
We’ll admit that most buyers might be wary about spending this much on a first-time retinol, but being a beginner doesn’t necessarily have to equal budget. Votary is the queen of oil-based products, and so it’s no surprise that its hydroxypinacolone retinoate (of undisclosed percentage) comes in oil form, with a selection including grape seed, apricot, avocado, rosehip and sandalwood. It leaves skin glowy, soft and bright, as well as well-hydrated, which is rare in a retinol product.
Buy now £135.00, Cult Beauty
Peter Thomas Roth retinol fusion PM
This is probably the strongest of our picks, but if you generally have no major skin complaints and haven’t suffered an adverse reaction to a product before, it is fine for a beginner to build up with. It’s a thin, runny serum with a pipette applicator that contains 1.5 per cent micro-encapsulated retinol, which means it is released over time. One of our testers found it left skin softer and noticeably reduced fine lines on the forehead, without any irritation or dryness.
Buy now £55.00, Beauty Bay
La Roche-Posay retinol 0.3% + vitamin B3 serum
Here, the French pharmacy brand has combined 0.3 per cent pure retinol with vitamin B3, also known as niacinamide, which is a hot ingredient for its hydrating and softening effects, and its exfoliating and cell-turnover-encouraging properties. The two together should make a real difference to firmness and texture. After two weeks of use, our tester found that her skin was softer, plumper and better hydrated, noting that she experienced fewer breakouts than normal.
Buy now £38.00, Look Fantastic
Murad retinol youth renewal serum
Murad is a dermatological brand that is widely trusted for its effective retinols. Its youth-renewal serum combines pure retinol with hydroxypinacolone retinoate, both at undisclosed percentages, as well as a buffer of hydrating hyaluronic acid and squalane. It leaves skin more supple and smooth, and improves the appearance of imperfections such as fine lines and scarring. It also didn’t irritate our tester’s skin, despite her being prone to breakouts.
Buy now £75.00, Cult Beauty
Susanne Kaufmann nutrient concentrate skin smoothing
This, from the Austrian spa brand, is a great choice for sensitive skins and those very nervous about retinol, as it is essentially a really lovely hydrating serum with a retinoid thrown in too. It contains hyaluronic acid derived from aloe vera, for a really moisturising, cooling effect on skin, as well as retinyl palmitate and calming, antibacterial chamomile, thistle and marigold oils. Our tester loved the minimalist apothecary-style bottle and saw a marked improvement in skin brightness and hydration.
Buy now £107.00, Net-A-Porter
The verdict: Retinols for beginners
Skinceuticals offers an entry-level-percentage pure retinol in a gentle buffer, and we think it will suit any first-time user. If you’re after an affordable option, we’d choose Indeed Labs, while Peter Thomas Roth’s formula will give swift results with minimal irritation.