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Once deemed 90s festive staples, now vanishing legends
Raya in the 90s meant towering biscuit tins, colourful paper cups and the silent competition of spotting your favourite kuih first. Today, many of those traditional sweets are being edged out by brownies, Nutella tarts and cafe-style cookies. While still treasured in certain states, these heritage Raya kuihs are becoming less familiar to younger Malaysians.
Here are some that once defined the festive spread.
Halwa maskat
Synonymous with Penang and Johor, halwa maskat – sometimes called English halwa – traces its origins to Masqat in Oman before being adapted locally. Made from wheat flour, sugar and generous amounts of ghee, the dough is traditionally fermented for three days and three nights. It is then stirred continuously over a slow fire for more than five hours until it transforms into a glossy, chewy jelly-like confection. The final product is cut into golden squares, rich with the aroma of ghee and sweet enough to last for months without refrigeration. In the 80s and 90s, its dodol-like texture made it a Raya favourite. Today, its labour-intensive preparation has made it increasingly rare.
Agar-agar kering
Helmed as the Malaysian kohakutou, the agar-agar kering resembles colourful jewels in a jar. Made by boiling agar-agar powder with water and sugar until dissolved, the mixture is flavoured with rose or pandan essence, tinted with food colouring and poured into trays to set. Once firm, it is cut into small cubes and left to air dry for several days until a delicate sugar crust forms on the outside while the centre remains slightly chewy. For many 90s children, these rainbow cubes were a Raya highlight during house visits. Sadly, the lengthy drying process and shift towards instant desserts have reduced its presence in modern homes.
Kuih tiram
Also known as lidah buaya or kapal terbang, this kuih is made from a simple dough of wheat flour, margarine and oil, carefully rolled and folded to create thin layers. The dough is sliced, deep-fried until crisp and then coated in sugar syrup for a glossy finish. Achieving those signature layers requires patience and precise rolling technique. While once a crunchy staple in Raya tins, it now competes with trendier biscuits that demand far less effort.
Biskut sampan
Shaped like a tiny boat, this traditional kuih begins with a buttery dough made by mixing butter and icing sugar until combined, adding egg and vanilla, then gradually incorporating milk powder and wheat flour to form a soft dough. The dough is pressed into sampan (small wooden boat) moulds and filled with a sweet mixture of butter, icing sugar, desiccated coconut, almonds, cherries and raisins before being baked at 160°C to 170°C for about 20 to 25 minutes. Once cooled, the delicate biscuits release from their moulds, crumbly and fragrant. Though still iconic, younger generations often reach instead for chocolate-heavy alternatives.
Kuih kelamai
Popular among the Rawa community in Gopeng and Tapah, Perak, this kuih is often described as dodol cooked in bamboo. A mixture of glutinous rice flour, thick coconut milk, palm sugar, white sugar and toasted coconut is combined and left to ferment for three days to develop flavour and texture. The mixture is then poured into banana leaf-lined bamboo and cooked slowly over a small fire until thick, soft and chewy. The smoky aroma from the bamboo distinguishes it from regular dodol. Its three-day preparation and traditional cooking method make it increasingly difficult to find outside its cultural heartland.
Kuih buah rotan
Also known as kuih redan or keciputan, these tiny crunchy balls are made by kneading glutinous rice flour with egg, coconut milk or water, sugar, salt and a little lime water into a soft dough. Small pieces are rolled into balls, coated thoroughly in sesame seeds and fried over moderate heat until golden and crisp. The key lies in maintaining steady heat to prevent the balls from bursting. Once cooled, they become crunchy and addictive. Despite its simple ingredients, careful frying technique has made it less common in home kitchens today, possibly due to the lack of demand or interest.
Kuih karas
A speciality from Kedah and Perlis, kuih karas uses only rice flour, sugar and water to form a smooth batter. The batter is poured through a special mould into hot oil in circular motions, creating fine lace-like strands that fry instantly to a golden crisp. The fragile sheets are folded or rolled while still warm before hardening. Light, airy and best paired with hot coffee, kuih karas require specific tools and timing, which may explain why it is less visible among modern Raya spreads.
Kuih batang buruk
This kuih features hollow cylindrical shells made from a dough of wheat flour, rice flour, coconut milk, egg and salt. The dough is rolled thin, shaped into tubes and fried until golden and crisp. Once cooled, each hollow piece is carefully filled with roasted mung bean powder mixed with icing sugar, then lightly coated again for extra flavour. The process demands precision and patience. Though it keeps well in airtight containers, many younger bakers opt for simpler no-fry alternatives.
Why are these kuihs fading?
The decline of these traditional Raya kuihs reflects changing lifestyles. Many require fermentation, continuous stirring, specialised moulds or hours of careful frying – techniques once passed down through generations.
Today’s festive tables favour convenience, speed and social media appeal. Imported chocolates, fusion cookies and bakery-style treats often replace labour-intensive heritage sweets.
Yet in certain households and states, these kuihs remain symbols of craftsmanship and memory. They are not merely desserts, but edible reminders of how Raya once tasted – slower, richer and shaped by hands that had time.