*Long post don't read. Cannot draw.
*Long post don't read. Cannot draw.
A Journey that was an Adventure. From Tawau (East Sabah) to Teluk Melano (Southwest Sarawak) by car.
Before you begin reading this, please note that this journey isn't for those looking for the Instagramable locations, nor for those who are looking for a touch and go, take photo type of trip. The local experience was something that we focused more on. It was to experience and feel, not a snap away post on socmed kind of trip.
This journey took us approximately 33 days from the day we departed Semporna to the day we arrived back in KL.
According to Google Maps, the direct driving range was about 2500km. With the gallivanting we did at many of the stops, we would have easily surpassed 3500km. If driving directly with no stops, it would have taken 40 hours. We spent easily up to 60 hours driving.
Here are some takeaways I would like to share and an answer to some of the questions asked.
1. Road conditions
- Yes, the drive isn't too bad and road conditions are generally good. 4WD is not necessarily needed but will be more comfortable.
- In comparison, Sarawak roads are definitely better than Sabah. East Sabah especially has the worst stretch of roads notably between Kinabatangan to Sapi Nangoh (before Telupid). This is where you see people complaining about Jalan Bulan. However, it's better now than 2 years ago.
- Pan Borneo stretch is mostly completed in Sarawak side. Hardly saw anything major completed in Sabah except bits and pieces (did not check out Kalabakan route this round).
- Countryside drive rated higher in Sarawak than Sabah overall in terms of beauty. However, certain stretches are prettier in Sabah such as Marak-Parak Highway and near to Simpang Mengayau.
Unlike highways in Semenanjung, main roads and highways in Sabah and Sarawak have very few R&R, although nearer Kuching there are a few. We have also seen more being built. Taviu R&R is located in a forest reserve. Unique, clean and well placed R&R although small.
*I have also driven the Paitan route, Kalabakan route and Tambunan route before in Sabah. Tambunan via Penampang and to Ranau is a really nice drive.
2. Comparing the town planning and roads etc, I would have to say that Sarawak definitely has better planning. The roads are bigger, there are ample parking spaces regardless if it's a small town or bigger cities. Buildings and shoplots aren't that cramped together. There seems to be more long term strategic planning in Sarawak than Sabah.
Kota Kinabalu feels like a bigger city than Kuching and definitely has a more cosmopolitan feel. This is most probably because it's more centrally developed while Kuching is more spread out. Malls such as Imago lends a KL type sophistication feel to the place. Kuching however has a more culturally and heritage friendly vibe. Borneo Cultures Museum was very impressive.
Favourite city - Miri. Definitely very much more pedestrian friendly and the vibe there was a perfect balance for a 5 day stay.
Favourite small town - Lawas. Can't really put my finger on it but we really liked the place. The surrounding areas are also perfect for exploration.
Friendliest city/town - Kapit. From the moment we stepped down from the car to the day we were leaving, the friendliest and most helpful people had to be hands down, from Kapit.
3. Nature and places to visit. This is going to be hard to compare, simply because we've travelled and spent more time in Sabah than Sarawak. However, based only on this trip I can say the following.
a) Mountains/Hillside - Definitely Kundasang/Mesilau had the best vibe and relaxation plus scenery. We love the Mesilau Sub Station area especially the river.
b) Beaches - Simpang Mengayau was our favourite go to place and remains so. I am never disappointed eventhough this would be at least our 10th time going there.
c) Diving - Miri was a nice surprise but of course Semporna remains one of the top choices as a Diving destination.
d) Jungles - Sarawak in general seems to have this more in abundance and better management. We also saw less of kelapa sawit plantations here. However, we believe there is more logging done in the interior based on the rivers we've come across.
e) Waterfalls/Hikes - Again I would say Sarawak in this aspect. But in defence of Sabah, this wasn't one of our key focus when we were there, so I believe there may be alot of nice destinations there too.
Do note that many of the waterfalls do require longer and more strenuous hikes. We were relatively lazy and went to the easier accessible ones.
f) Sunsets - Sabah in general, with Simpang Mengayau as the notable place to go for the best vibes and scene. Kapit and Kuching also provided some nice sunset shots albeit a different view.
g) River cruises - there are definitely more choices in Sarawak than in Sabah. But although our past experience with Kinabatangan wasn't the best, it may also provide the better experience. Our Santubong River cruise we managed to see crocodiles and dolphins though. The Sarawak River cruise was relaxing. There is also the option of having a dinner on board the bigger boat as an option which we didn't get to experience in Sabah.
We note also that Sarawak in general has more focus along rivers while Sabah is more towards seaside.
h) We've only been to Gua Madai (Sabah) and Gua Niah (Sarawak). Both are beautiful, but Niah is better managed for tourism. Mulu though seems to be the go to place. Everyone keeps telling us to go there. One day we will.
4. Culture and Heritage - most definitely more to be seen and offered in Sarawak than Sabah. Even in some of the more secluded and far away towns, it is possible to find heritage stuff, even locally produced handicrafts in Sarawak. Those in Sabah are more touristy like t-shirts etc. For local history, culture etc, Sarawak seems abit more serious in promoting and organising. The Borneo Cultures Museum is a case in point. I don't like museums but even then I found this interesting. Along the journey in Sarawak, we also saw more historical landmarks and attractions compared to what we could actively find in Sabah.
5. Food - in general, Sarawak was more of a gastronomical delight than Sabah. There was more variety in terms of local food, better prepared and cleaner. However do note that it is harder to find Halal food in Sarawak than Sabah. And in Sarawak, especially in smaller towns, it isn't uncommon to eat at a local establishment that serves halal and pork food from different stalls but in the same shop.
Sarawakians eat more vegetables and fruits thats for sure. *Note that bananas and papayas are very cheap in both Sabah and Sarawak. Midin is like the national vegetable in Sarawak. Kolo Mee and Sarawak Laksa is available everywhere in Sarawak, to the extent that we got so scared of it. Noodles are more in Sarawak, rice in Sabah.
Interestingly, hill rice type of rice is relatively easy to find in both states. However, the best one we had was in Kundasang. They call it Linopot if not mistaken. It's the one purple in colour.
A few people asked me about seafood. And here's the quandary. In terms of freshness and selections from the sea, Sabah definitely is better. Sarawak was more of freshwater and river produce. In terms of cooking styles and variety, it was more or less the same. Price wise, Sarawak was cheaper.
* Take note that shops, including eateries, start earlier in the morning and close much earlier at night. Don't be surprised to find most places closed by 8pm especially in smaller towns. (Both Sabah and Sarawak).
6. Cleanliness - if there is a major surface difference between Sabah and Sarawak, one of these would be the cleanliness level in both states. Sarawak seems to be better managed in terms of this. Even in small towns, the public toilets in establishements are well taken care of in comparison to Sabah. I was abit surprised when using the toilets at the eateries at small towns. It seemed more like in the big cities. In Sabah, let's just say I always hesitate to go into one. The streets are less dirtier, there is less of a stench in rivers, seas and the air due to waste disposal. The cities and bigger towns in general are cleaner in Sarawak (although I can't complain about Kota Kinabalu).
These 6 points are sufficient in a general analysis of our journey. Fell free to ask further of anything else or for more details in the comments section.
I understand that there are still many places we have yet to visit in both states nor is this journey extensive or in depth enough for a full comprehension of what both have to offer. Please note that this isn't comparing which is better than the other. It is just a sharing of our experience for this trip only. Jangan sentap ya or cari pasal. Both cantik and each have their charm.
Travelling is to open up our minds, experiencing what the world has to offer and to enrich the time we have in this world.
** Recommendations for Accommodations (comfortable, value for money)**
- Sandakan - Sepilok Jungle Retreat
- Kota Belud - OYO Mountain View Guesthouse
- Simpang Mengayau - Tommy's Place
- Mesilau - Kiram's Village and Sulap Dahai
- Kota Kinabalu - Jesselton Quay Citypad Homestay and Ming Garden
- Lawas - All Are Welcome Inn
- Miri - Dynasty Hotel
- Sibu - Starlink Hotel
- Sri Aman - Cassava Farmstay
- Kuching - Hock Lee Hotel & Residences
These are the places we've stayed before, comfortable enough and provided value for money.
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