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By Mihar Dias (C) Copyright August 2024
On a wet, rainy Sunday of 11th August, a momentous event took place at D'King, Bukit Bintang. Chef Jo of MASTERCHEF Malaysia fame, along with a cadre of illustrious culinary experts, unveiled a culinary treasure: a durian cookbook.
This isn’t just any cookbook—it’s a testament to Malaysia’s pride in its most celebrated export, the Musang King durian, and a grand invitation to the world to embrace the marvels of this divisive yet divine fruit.
In recent years, Malaysia has ascended to the throne as the world’s preeminent exporter of durian, and it’s about time we showcased its versatility in the culinary arts. What better way to help the world appreciate durian than through a carefully curated guide to preparing culinary delights with this extraordinary fruit?
This cookbook, a labour of love and culinary brilliance, is a celebration of durian’s unique flavour, texture, and aroma—characteristics that have earned it both ardent fans and fervent detractors.
Having visited China frequently over the past few months, and participated in one of the largest Taiwan-China leisure food fairs in Quanzhou, I can personally attest to the Chinese love affair with durian. The Chinese have taken to this sweet and pungent fruit with an enthusiasm that’s nothing short of extraordinary. Durian-flavoured snacks, from pizza to cakes, seafood dishes, ice cream, and candies, have become ubiquitous in the Chinese culinary landscape.
Yet, as widespread as durian’s influence is in China, many are still unaware of the myriad of traditional and innovative delicacies that originate from Malaysia, the true home of durian.
This cookbook is more than just a collection of recipes; it’s a cultural bridge, introducing the world to durian-infused dishes that are deeply rooted in Malaysian tradition. The book’s brilliance lies not just in its recipes but in the personal stories shared by the chefs who contributed to it. Each recipe is prefaced with a nostalgic glimpse into the chef's past, offering readers a taste of the cultural significance that durian holds in Malaysia.
Take, for example, Chef Jo’s childhood memory of his grandfather’s “durian burong,” a tiny bird-shaped durian, lovingly carved and gifted to him as a toy. This simple yet poignant story is a reminder of how durian is woven into the fabric of Malaysian life—transforming from a playful object in childhood to an ingredient of culinary excellence in adulthood.
The book brings together the expertise of eight celebrated chefs from around the globe, including luminaries such as Chef Ismail Ahmad, Dave Murugaya, Debbie Teoh, Zaleha Olpin from Bristol, Bob Adnin, Renee Johari (Chef Jo’s son, based in Dubai), and Jackie Tang, who played a pivotal role in making this cookbook a reality. Each chef brings their unique flair and cultural background to the table, creating a vibrant, colourful tapestry of durian-inspired cuisines.
The recipes in this book are nothing short of spectacular. From appetisers and salads to main courses and desserts, the dishes range from the wonderfully unique to the brilliantly reimagined versions of traditional Malay, Chinese, and Indian cuisines. This cookbook is, indeed, a national treasure trove—a culinary gift to the world that showcases durian in ways many never imagined possible.
As the world continues to fall in love with durian, this cookbook will undoubtedly serve as a guide, a source of inspiration, and a symbol of Malaysia’s culinary prowess.
Congratulations to Chef Jo and his colleagues for bringing this masterpiece to life. It’s more than just a collection of recipes; it’s a celebration of culture, tradition, and the boundless creativity that can be unlocked with a fruit as extraordinary as durian.
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