You may know them as tod mun pla or you may know them as your beloved neighbourhood fish cakes. Super popular in Bangkok and super common in traditional Thai restaurants, fish cakes are a Thai dish that is beloved for its soft texture and herbaceous flavour. Here’s where you can find the best Thai fish cakes in Bangkok at the best street food stalls in Bangkok.
What is tod mun pla, or Thai fish cake?
The words literally translate to ‘deep fried fish,’ and refer to a popular Thai appetiser or street food dish. They are made primarily using fish (normally king mackerel), long green beans, and red curry paste, which are shaped into small, round patties. The texture is plump and slightly chewy, balancing sweet and salty flavour profiles. It isn’t typically a spicy food, though there are strong herbal notes.
Most commonly, tod mun pla is consumed with a sweet chili dipping sauce, or arjaad, made with vinegar, shallots, cucumbers, and chili.
You will find Thai fish cakes mostly at street food stalls and in markets (even floating markets), though many seafood restaurants sell them, too.
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Where to find the best fish cakes (tod mun pla) in Bangkok
Fish cakes opposite Chakkrawat Temple
Neighbourhood: Chinatown
Chinatown is well-known as street food haven, and so it should hardly come as a surprise that some of the best fish cakes in Bangkok can be found here. Opposite Chakkrawat Temple, look out for the vendor shaping fresh fish paste into fish cakes, and you’ve found the right place. Normally accompanied by a long queue, the fish cakes here are square (!) and not round in shape, and come with a healthy serving of cucumbers and sauce. The recipe is said to be over 100 years old.
Address: 223 Chakkrawat, Chakkrawat Sampanthawong, Bangkok
Cantonese Fishcake Si Nuan (Todmun Seenuan)
Neighbourhood: Charoenkrung
If you’re looking for something a little different, check out Cantonese Fishcake Si Nuan. Bringing a Cantonese spin to a series of fried foods, the fish cakes here come either with or without curry paste, and are revered for their non-oily mouthfeel. These fish cakes are a little pricier (THB 20 a piece, or THB 100 for five), though they’ve also made appearances on various Thai television channels. Go all out and try the fried buns while you’re here, too.
Address: 1447 Charoenkrung Road, Bang Rak, Bangkok
More Info: Todmun Seenuan
Saint Louis 3 Fish Cake
Neighbourhood: Sathorn
This place claims to sell 100 kilos of fish cakes a day, so you know they’re serious about their tod mun. Tucked into an unassuming corner in Sathorn, the fish cakes here are thick and bouncy, and beloved for their curry flavour. The most interesting bit is seeing the vendors use a machine to shape them, before they are run down a small conveyor belt into the hot oil.
Address: 107 South Sathorn Road, Yan Nawa, Sathorn, Bangkok
Ha Heng Fried Fish Cakes
Neighbourhood: Charoenkrung
Another tod mun pla spot in Charoenkrung, Ha Heng is beloved for freshly made, no-fuss fried fish cakes, tucked into a soi in Bang Rak. They make fried catfish cakes here, and even sell the fresh fish cake batter to-go if you prefer to fry your own.
Address: 36 Charoenkrung Road, Bang Rak, Bangkok
Lalai Sap Fish Cakes
Neighbourhood: Silom
Those who live or work in the CBD will know that Lalai Sap is the place to be if you seek affordable and delicious street food on weekdays. The old-school fried fish cake stall always sees a long queue, and is popular for its crunchy texture. The fish cakes are topped with a generous serving of peanuts and shredded kaffir lime leaves. The sauce is also thick and sweet, so it’s an all-round indulgent bite.
Address: Lalai Sap Market, Silom 5, Bang Rak, Bangkok
Khun Mhuay
Neighbourhood: Charoenkrung
Originally hailing from Samut Songkram, Khun Mhuay follows her grandmother’s recipe for Thai fish cakes. The stall is small and unassuming, but popular with those who are in the know. It used to be part of a larger market, though now only a few stalls have survived.
Address: 8 Charoenkrung 46, Bang Rak, Bangkok
Ari Fried Fish Cakes (Tod Mun Ari)
Neighbourhood: Ari
There are those who like their tod mun pla thick and chewy, and those who prefer them small and bitesized. This stall is for the latter group. The fish cakes at this Ari street food stall are very small, allowing for the batter to get really crispy, while the insides remain soft.
Address: Between Soi Ari 1 and 2, Phaya Thai, Bangkok
