Few chefs have contributed as significantly to the global perception of Indian cuisine as Vikas Khanna. His journey from Amritsar to Michelin-starred kitchens in New York is emblematic of the emotional depth that Indian food carries. Chef Khanna has often said, “Food is memory, culture, and emotion plated together.” Back in 2009, when Khanna co-founded Junoon, he established Indian cuisine on US soil without compromising its soul. Signature dishes like ghee-roasted meats, slow-cooked dals, and intricate spice blends are still presented with finesse, yet remain rooted in tradition.
Inspired by Udupi temple cuisine, Ananas Menaskai or roasted pineapple curry is Bungalow’s signature, top-rated dish that takes two days to prepare. Photo courtesy: Vikas Khanna
If Chef Khanna represents emotion, Chef Sujan Sarkar embodies evolution. His approach is unapologetically modern. Sarkar has often said, “Indian cuisine doesn’t need embellishment, it needs clarity. When you respect the ingredient, the cuisine speaks for itself.” This philosophy is evident in his work at Indienne, Chicago, where dishes are stripped down to their essence. Think of a reimagined chaat presented as an elegant composition, or a slow-cooked meat dish that highlights a single spice profile. Sarkar’s food is not about excess, it is about precision. For a long time, Indian cuisine abroad existed in a narrow frame — comforting, familiar, and largely defined by the diaspora. It was food that evoked memory: butter chicken, naan, dal, and the ubiquitous ‘curry’. But over the past three decades, it has undergone a profound transformation, moving from nostalgia-driven cooking to becoming a dynamic culinary force — one that sits confidently alongside the world’s most respected cuisines.
For Chef Sujan Sarkar Indian cuisine doesn’t need embellishment, it needs clarity.
This evolution did not happen overnight. It is the result of cultural shifts, pioneering individuals, changing consumer awareness, and a new generation of chefs who refused to let Indian food be boxed into stereotypes. First, the Indian diaspora laid the foundation. Early migrants opened restaurants that catered primarily to their own communities, serving familiar dishes that offered comfort in foreign lands. Over time, these establishments began adapting flavours to suit local palates, often simplifying regional diversity into a generic ‘curry culture’. Second, globalisation changed the narrative. As travel and exposure to diverse cuisines became more accessible, diners began seeking authenticity and depth rather than just familiarity. Indian food, with its vast regional diversity, layered spice profiles, and deep-rooted traditions, was uniquely positioned to meet this demand. Third, and most importantly, chefs began reclaiming the narrative. They moved away from the ‘one-size-fits-all curry’ perception and started presenting Indian cuisine as it truly is: diverse, regional, and innovative. This shift marked the transition from survival-driven diaspora cooking to globally-respected culinary artistry.
As one of the first Indian chefs to earn a Michelin star in the US, Chef Hemant Mathur proved that Indian cuisine could stand shoulder to shoulder with French, Italian, and Japanese fine dining traditions. Setting a precedent Before Indian cuisine could be redefined, it had to be recognised. Chef Hemant Mathur played a pivotal role in this transition. As one of the first Indian chefs to earn a Michelin star in the US, Mathur proved that Indian cuisine could stand shoulder to shoulder with French, Italian, and Japanese fine dining traditions. His restaurant, Devi (2004) in New York (NY), was among the first Indian restaurants in the US to earn a Michelin star. He has since moved on to establish other fine-dining restaurants, Veeray da Dhaba and Kutir, in NY. As Chef Mathur puts it, “We had to first earn respect before we could innovate.” This statement captures the early struggle of Indian chefs abroad — where the challenge was not just cooking great food, but convincing diners and critics to take Indian cuisine seriously. His work laid the foundation to experiment, innovate, and push boundaries without having to justify the cuisine’s legitimacy. The next phase of Indian cuisine’s global rise is perhaps best represented by Chef Chintan Pandya. His work is deeply rooted in regional specificity and cultural authenticity. At Dhamaka, NY, Pandya has taken a bold approach: no butter chicken, no clichés, only unapologetically regional food. From Rajasthani khad to Bihari-style mutton, the menu celebrates lesser-known culinary traditions. Pandya believes, “The future of Indian cuisine lies in its past — in the stories we haven’t told yet.”
Chef Chintan Pandya’s food is deeply rooted in regional specificity and cultural authenticity.
The Jaffrey effect Any conversation about Indian cuisine abroad must begin with Madhur Jaffrey, the ‘godmother of Indian cooking’. At a time when Indian food was barely understood in the West, she brought it into mainstream consciousness through her ground-breaking debut cookbook, ‘An Invitation to Indian Cooking’ (1973). Through her TV shows, writings, and teaching, she brought into vogue Indian food abroad, turning it from something exotic to something relatable and respected.
Vineet Bhatia is recognised as the first Indian chef-patron to earn a Michelin star (2001, Zaika, London). He is also the only Indian chef to hold two Michelin stars simultaneously (2009) for his restaurants at different locations.
Following her, a wave of restaurateurs and chefs began shaping the identity of Indian cuisine globally. Chefs Vineet Bhatia and Floyd Cardoz (who passed away in 2020 due to Covid-19) played crucial roles in introducing refined, contemporary Indian dining experiences. Chef Sanjeev Kapoor expanded the global reach of Indian food through media and international ventures, while Chef Gaggan Anand redefined Indian gastronomy with progressive techniques and storytelling-driven menus. Meanwhile, Chef Garima Arora broke new ground as one of the leading female voices in global Indian cuisine, proving that Indian food could be modern, minimalist, and deeply rooted at the same time. Arora became the first Indian female chef to earn a Michelin star for her restaurant Gaa in Bangkok. Together, the pioneers shifted Indian cuisine from being ‘ethnic food’ to having intellectual and creative value.
Garima Arora (above) is the first Indian female chef to earn a Michelin star for her restaurant Gaa in Bangkok. Photo courtesy: Garima Arora
Beyond curries For years, Indian restaurants abroad were trapped in a limited identity: heavy gravies, standardised menus, and predictable offerings. The term ‘curry house’ became both recognition and a limitation. The turning point came when chefs began challenging this perception.
Atul Kochhar was one of the first Indian chefs to receive a Michelin star in 2001.
Atul Kochhar was one of the earliest game-changers. In 2001, he became one of the first Indian chefs to receive a Michelin star, widely regarded as a breakthrough moment for Indian cuisine in fine dining. His approach showcased regional flavours with modern techniques, proving that Indian cuisine could be both sophisticated and globally competitive. Kochhar’s ability to marry Indian flavours with Michelin-level precision has made his Benares a landmark in London’s fine-dining scene. This movement encouraged chefs to dig deeper into India’s culinary heritage, bringing forward forgotten ingredients, regional recipes, and nuanced techniques. The focus shifted from ‘what sells’ to ‘what represents’. The evolution of Indian cuisine abroad is perhaps most visible in its restaurant spaces where storytelling, technique, and identity converge.
Chef Floyd Cardoz (who passed away in 2020 due to Covid-19) played crucial roles in introducing refined, contemporary Indian dining experiences. Photo: Lauren Volo
In the UK, Dishoom reimagined the Irani cafe culture of Bombay, blending nostalgia with design, storytelling, and exceptional food. In Dubai, Chef Himanshu Saini’s Tresind Studio has redefined Indian cuisine as an immersive journey. Multi-course tasting menus, dramatic presentations, and narrative-driven dining experiences have elevated Indian food into the realm of performance art. In the US, Rani in New Jersey represents the growing wave of Indian restaurants that balance authenticity with contemporary appeal, catering to both the diaspora and global diners. Earlier, legacy institutions like Ambassadors Clubhouse, London, had played a significant role in establishing Indian cuisine among elite dining circles, while modern establishments continue to push boundaries. Together, these restaurants reflect the journey of Indian cuisine from traditional spaces serving familiar food to experiential destinations offering innovation. The new mix Today’s Indian chefs are not just cooking, they are narrating stories. Vikas Khanna’s new restaurant, Bungalow in New York, has achieved remarkable success in a short span of two years — earning accolades such as Michelin Bib Gourmand recognition and being featured among the top new restaurants by leading publications. Chef Khanna was named among the TIME 100 Most Influential People of 2026 for bringing Indian culture and cuisine to the global forefront. For decades, butter chicken and tikka masala dominated menus. While they still remain beloved, they no longer define Indian cuisine globally. Today, dishes like regional biryanis, millet-based preparations, coastal curries, fermented foods, and hyper-local specialties are gaining recognition. Small plates inspired by street food like chaats, kebabs, and regional snacks are becoming central to menus.
Tandoori Story, a dish that changed Gaa’s trajectory, combines durian puree with roselle (hibiscus) saag. Photo courtesy: Garima Arora
Chefs are also experimenting with cross-cultural formats: Indian tacos, progressive tasting menus, plant-forward dishes, and modern interpretations of traditional recipes. With the growing global interest in sustainability and heritage foods, Indian cuisine, with its emphasis on seasonality and plant-based traditions, naturally fits into this narrative. Awards and global recognition have played a crucial role in legitimising Indian cuisine. From Michelin stars to global rankings, Indian chefs and restaurants are now regularly featured among the best. Initiatives like the Annapurna Awards (which celebrate excellence in Indian hospitality and culinary arts) highlight the growing acknowledgment of Indian cuisine’s impact. As Madhur Jaffrey demonstrated through her work, success in global cuisine is not just about cooking, it is about communication, adaptation, and persistence. Chefs like Atul Kochhar have spoken about the importance of evolving with time while staying rooted in tradition, balancing authenticity with innovation. Their journeys reflect a broader truth: the rise of Indian cuisine abroad is not just a culinary story, but a human one. What makes this rise truly remarkable is that it has not come at the cost of identity. Instead, Indian cuisine has embraced its diversity, complexity, and depth and presented it confidently to the world. Indian cuisine is no longer just part of the global food conversation, it is helping define it. — The writer is a celebrity chef
