Throughout my life, I have been lucky to have rather unproblematic skin. Sure, I’ll get the odd pimple in the lead-up to my period, and I have always been self-conscious about dark circles forming under my eyes, but things like acne and eczema have so far evaded me (touch wood).
It's why I was surprised when my skin erupted in this flaming red rash around my mouth last winter. At first, I started analysing what I had eaten (was I suddenly allergic to peanuts? Had I grown intolerant to cow's milk?). But when it persisted long after cutting these things out of my diet, I decided to go to my GP, who informed me it was perioral dermatitis: a persistent skin condition that is particularly common among women aged 20 to 50 – even Hailey Bieber suffers from it.
His first suggestion? “Don't wear makeup at all and wash your face with water only” – a solution I saw the merits of but dismissed, because how on earth was I meant to not wear makeup indefinitely with such a public-facing job? He then reluctantly prescribed me a topical steroid cream.
It's safe to say that the ointment didn't work – in fact, it enraged the area even further, and small bumps started to surface around my mouth (I'd just started dating someone, so this look was far from ideal).
It wasn't until I was interviewing a dermatologist for an article on cracked skin that I was told to ditch the steroid cream altogether and focus on products containing copper/zinc complexes and ceramides, before seeing a dermatologist for medical treatment. “It'll still take some time to heal, but you should start noticing the difference within a week or so,” Dr Angela Tewari, consultant dermatologist, told me.
Then, after some research and testing, I finally found three products that calmed my skin and brought it back to its former state. Although the condition has returned this year (the heating is back on, I’m taking hotter showers and braving the elements when I go outside, which also dries out the skin), I went nine whole months without any signs of perioral dermatitis. And now that I’ve started to reintroduce these basic skincare products to my daily routine, I’ve begun to notice the flare-up ease once more.
Of course, everyone’s skin is different. And if you are concerned, you should get it checked out by your GP, pharmacist or a dermatologist.
What is perioral dermatitis?
Perioral dermatitis is a very common skin condition that tends to affect women of all skin types between ages 20 and 50, said Dr Tewari.
“As dermatologists, we see a mix of redness, scaly skin, and soreness around the mouth and nasolabial folds, which is usually related to a disrupted skin barrier resulting in inflammation,” she says.
What causes perioral dermatitis?
The exact cause of perioral dermatitis is not known, but Dr Tewari says it’s mainly due to over-stripping the skin, though lots of things can contribute.
“For example, people double or even triple cleanse before they use actives, such as retinoids, vitamin C or hyaluronic acid,” the dermatologist explains. “Previously, it was due to things like topical steroid use, which is used to treat some facial skin conditions, but certainly now we are seeing this irritation more from the use of too many layered actives.”
There are still unknowns about the pathophysiology of the skin condition, but the expert says seasonal changes – such as the cold weather, central heating or hot water – may also have an impact. “I also think some people are just more prone to perioral dermatitis or a disrupted skin barrier.”
Four common mistakes people make with perioral dermatitis
Dr Tewari explains that the most common mistakes people make with perioral dermatitis are:
- Using hydrocortisone: It calms the rash at first, then it rebounds worse, which creates a cycle of dependence.
- Treating it as acne with harsh actives: Things like retinoids, acids or benzoyl peroxide tend to irritate it.
- Panicking when it flares up after stopping steroids: A temporary rebound is expected.
- Expecting a quick fix: It usually takes weeks to months to settle.
The products that saved my skin
Cetaphil gentle skin cleanser wash 236ml
When pretty much every skincare product is packed with lots of different ingredients and comes in fancy packaging these days, it’s easy to overlook brands like Cetaphil when perusing your local pharmacy. But while the bottle may not be the most aesthetically pleasing, its basic ingredients are exactly what irritated skin needs – no muss, no fuss; just simple, pared-back beauty that does the job.
The Cetaphil gentle skin cleanser is a particular standout in the range, owing to its moisturising ingredients. Hydrating your skin while you cleanse, just a pea-sized amount will help gently remove dirt and makeup, while soothing and calming any irritation.
Although I have also used the brand’s gentle exfoliating salicylic cleanser, which is especially good for my normally oily skin in the summer, the gentle skin cleanser is a much better option when I have perioral dermatitis flare-ups, as it’s less intense and doesn’t strip my skin of that much-needed moisture in the winter.
I bought a 236ml bottle in October last year, and while I haven’t used it consistently since January, I still have half left. When I was using the product religiously to help curb my symptoms, I was using it every morning in the shower and every evening when removing my makeup.
Buy now £9.2, Lookfantastic.com
E45 daily protect face moisturiser SPF30 for dry skin 50ml
Known for its dermatological skincare products designed to treat skin conditions such as eczema and sunburn, I knew E45 was a surefire way to get my skin back on track. Is it the sexiest product range on the market? Absolutely not. But this E45 daily protect face moisturiser has a no-nonsense combination of vitamin E and glycerin, a water-absorbing humectant, which is ideal when you’re suffering from dry, itchy and inflamed skin.
What’s more, this particular face cream comes with SPF30, meaning you can protect your skin from harmful UV rays while injecting a bit of hydration.
A little goes a long way, so be careful not to squirt too much of the product when using. It is also on the stickier, thicker side, so I generally apply less in the daytime to avoid that shiny look – and catching my scarf/jumper fibres in it.
Buy now £9.33, Boots.com
Nivea crème moisturiser for face hands and body, 75ml
Growing up, my mother would use Sudocrem and Nivea crème on just about everything. They were her go-to antidotes for grazes, dry skin, nettle stings – you name it. Perhaps because of this, I’ve always kept a trusty tin of Nivea in my bathroom cabinet.
It isn’t just about family traditions and remedies, though. With more than 100 years of experience and science behind it, Nivea remains one of the most prominent and reliable skincare brands on the market. Harnessing the emulsifying benefits of eucerit, Nivea crème, in particular, is a thick, hydrating solution that still feels luxurious and pampering.
I already used this cream whenever I had a cold, slathering on a thick layer and letting it soak in overnight to improve the appearance of a red nose or flaky skin. I also use it to calm cracked hands in the winter. But when I developed perioral dermatitis, I found the mixture soothed my irritated skin and removed some of the superficial damage caused by the condition.
Buy now £3.17, Amazon.co.uk
