100 Malaysians, 100 Milestones – LSA100 this year celebrates Koh Yung Shen, fondly known by his peers as Shen, who is the founder of Backdoor Bodega and the man behind Penang’s vibrant cocktail scene thanks to his successful initiatives like Penang Cocktail Week.
In the world of cocktails, where artistry meets precision, Koh Yung Shen has managed to carve out a reputation that goes beyond the boundaries of his self-taught origins. As the founder of Penang’s Backdoor Bodega — a quirky speakeasy that started as a fun, personal project and has since become a name on Asia’s 50 Best Bars 51-100 list — Shen has infused Penang’s bar scene with new life, elevating it from local curiosity to an internationally recognised destination.
What sets Shen apart is not only his innovative approach to cocktails but also his unwavering commitment to reshaping how bartending is perceived in Malaysia. A creative entrepreneur with a clear vision, Shen views bars as an integral part of a city’s cultural identity, as essential to a destination as its food. For him, Penang’s reputation as a food paradise should be mirrored in its drink culture, which he champions through initiatives like Penang Cocktail Week.
Shen’s journey is as much about passion as it is about perseverance. None of his team members were formally trained; they’ve all learned the craft through curiosity, dedication, and endless experimentation. Today, Backdoor Bodega’s ascent is a testament to their hard work, and Shen sees his success not only as a personal achievement but as a validation for every bartender who believes in the power of this career. With every cocktail and collaboration, he’s redefining what it means to be a bartender in Malaysia, turning his vision for Penang into an evolving reality, one drink at a time.
Backdoor Bodega’s success is nothing short of remarkable, especially making it to Asia’s 50 Best Bars 51-100 list. As a self-taught bartender from Penang, how does it feel to see your bar earn such recognition?
It feels great to see Penang get some well-deserved attention, but with that recognition comes a lot of expectations. Honestly, when I first started Backdoor Bodega, it was just for fun. None of us were professionally trained bartenders; we were self-taught, each coming from different backgrounds. So, when something as big as making Asia’s 50 Best Bars 51-100 list came our way, it brought a new level of responsibility and expectations.
This recognition has pushed us to stay on our toes, constantly ensuring we meet our own high standards. It’s a different kind of pressure, but one I’m grateful for. More than anything, I think this award belongs to the team. Bartending demands long hours and is far from easy, so this kind of validation for their hard work means a lot.
For me, as long as the bar is moving forward, I’m happy. But this award is a huge boost for the team—it’s proof that their dedication matters, and it’s a reminder that bartending can be a rewarding, respected career path that brings recognition and even fame. That’s something I’m really proud to be part of.
Penang Cocktail Week started in 2023, but in just a short time, it has grown into an international event, attracting bars and bartenders from all over the world. What inspired you to create this festival, and how has it evolved beyond what you initially imagined?
When I first started Penang Cocktail Week, my initial idea was simple: I wanted to bring guest bartenders from around the world to Penang, especially since Asia’s 50 Best Bars was held in Singapore last year. I knew this would be a rare opportunity to introduce international talent to Penang, given how far it is for many of them. But as the concept developed, it became something much more personal to me.
As the owner of Backdoor Bodega, which has been around for eight years, I’ve seen a lot of talented bartenders leave for ‘greener pastures’ in places like Singapore, where bartending is often seen as a viable, long-term career. Here in Malaysia, unfortunately, bartending is still largely viewed as a temporary or transitional job, not a respected career path. If we want people to see this craft seriously, we need to do more than just open bars, create menus, and hold occasional guest shifts. Without change, bartending here risks being seen as a ‘by the way’ job — something people do before moving on to what’s considered a ‘real’ career.
My goal with Penang Cocktail Week is to elevate the perception of bartending in Malaysia. I want both consumers and bartenders to see it as a respected, fulfilling career that can open doors to experiences and places they might not have otherwise. By showing what bartenders in other countries have achieved, especially in places like Singapore and Bangkok, I hope to inspire a shift here — a shift where bartending is valued as a craft, a career that can take you far. So, Penang Cocktail Week has evolved from just a gathering of international bartenders to a platform that helps redefine bartending in Malaysia, showing both consumers and professionals that this is a serious, respected profession.
This year, Penang Cocktail Week made a comeback with a shorter schedule but an expanded lineup of events and activities, including the introduction of Bar Banters. What inspired you to create Bar Banters, and what unique experience does it bring to the event?
Last year, we ran Penang Cocktail Week over 10 days, but we heard from both guests and bar staff that the length was a bit exhausting — so many events stretched over so many days took a toll on everyone involved. So this year, we shortened it to eight days, but we packed in even more events than before. One of the new additions was Bar Banters, a session where renowned bartenders from around the world share their personal journeys and experiences.
I’ve wanted to create something like Bar Banters for a long time because I feel there’s a real need for a platform like this in Malaysia. It goes beyond guest shifts and drinking; it gives people a chance to talk about cocktails and the craft of bartending without actually having to drink. Guest shifts are great fun, but I thought it was important to have a space where we could have deeper conversations on topics we don’t often get the chance to discuss because we’re usually caught up in the fun of it all.
Another reason for creating Bar Banters was to allow bartenders here in Malaysia to connect with some of the industry’s top talents. It’s rare to have the chance to ask these experienced bartenders how they run their businesses and manage their day-to-day operations. My vision for Bar Banters is to create a space where people can learn directly from these experts — where you can ask, ‘How do you manage this, and what’s your approach to running your bar?’ These kinds of conversations help our industry grow in ways that just aren’t possible during typical guest shifts.
In speaking with bars from around the world, what differences did you notice compared to bars in Malaysia, and what areas do you think our local bars could improve on?
One of the biggest things I noticed from talking to other bars around the world is the extreme level of dedication they put into their craft — and I mean that in the best way possible. In many cases, this dedication could go both ways: maybe they’re successful because they’re constantly pushing boundaries to meet high expectations, or perhaps they reached that level of success because of this unwavering commitment. Take the team at Jigger & Pony, for example — they’ve been at it for 12 years, staying consistent and persevering to build their reputation. Colin Chia of Nutmeg & Clove is another great example; he’s been in the industry for over 30 years, even though Nutmeg & Clove itself has been around for just a decade. To have that kind of longevity and commitment to one craft is incredible.
In Malaysia, we don’t have craft cocktail bars that have been around that long yet. We have longstanding neighbourhood bars, like Sid’s Pub, but you don’t see a craft cocktail bar with a fine-dining approach that’s been around for decades. That’s one of the key differences I see: the level of seriousness and long-term commitment to the craft. It’s not to say Malaysian bartenders aren’t dedicated, but longevity and a deeply ingrained culture around the craft aren’t as common here.
We do face unique challenges in Malaysia, and part of what we want to convey to the public is that bartending isn’t just a ‘job between jobs’ — it can be a meaningful, successful career. Running a bar is as demanding and rewarding as managing any type of business; it’s not just about the party scene, but about the artistry and effort behind the bar. This is still a common misconception in Malaysia, though it’s slowly changing, especially with recognition like Asia’s 50 Best Bars, which has opened up new opportunities for bars and bartenders here.
If there’s one takeaway from these global conversations, it’s that dedication to the craft is essential. There’s a lot we can learn from their commitment and long-term vision, and it’s an area where I think we can continue to grow and improve.
What has been some of the most rewarding experiences from this year’s event?
Aside from Bar Banters, one of the most rewarding experiences this year was definitely the Malaysian Invasion. We held it last year as well, dedicating one night of Penang Cocktail Week solely to guest shifts and bar takeovers by Malaysian bars. It’s become a great reason for all our friends in the industry—from Kuala Lumpur, Johor Bahru, Melaka—to come together in Penang. It was a night of pure, unforgettable chaos in the best way, with Malaysian bartenders taking over multiple bars at once, creating what I can only describe as an epic night of cocktail pandemonium.
For me and the other international bartenders, it was especially fun because, for once, we got to be the consumers, bar-hopping around Penang and visiting all the different guest shifts as a group. We could just enjoy each other’s work and creativity as a community. Then, the next day, it was back to work, sharing shifts and collaborating with one another all over town.
As much as we had some big names from around the world, the Malaysian Invasion was hands-down the highlight for me. Maybe it’s my Malaysian pride showing a bit, but bringing together all these Malaysian bars and bartenders for one night—putting aside the usual competition and just enjoying the camaraderie—was incredibly meaningful.
How does it feel to see your vision for Penang as a cocktail destination become a reality?
Initially, one of the main motivations for creating Penang Cocktail Week was the global spotlight Penang gained as a food destination post-COVID-19. As a bar owner and bartender, I strongly believe that food and drinks go hand in hand. In cities like Hong Kong, Singapore, and Bangkok, the bar scenes stand alongside the food scenes with equal recognition, but in Malaysia—and especially Penang—attention has been very food-focused, with less appreciation for the cocktail scene.
One of the unique things about Penang is that many of the bars are owner-operated, which brings a special personal touch. Unlike big cities where high rents often require investors or partners to establish a bar, here in Penang, you’ll find that the bartender is often the owner, the one opening and closing up every day. This adds a sense of authenticity that’s rare in larger cities, and it’s something I think people appreciate when they experience it firsthand.
With all these elements in play, I wanted to shine a light on Penang’s bar scene and show that our bars are just as remarkable as our food. The timing has been perfect too—with Michelin recognising Penang, Backdoor Bodega reaching number 52 on Asia’s 50 Best Bars 51-100 list, and growing local media coverage of our bars, we’re taking steady steps toward putting Penang’s bar scene on the map.
Having Penang Cocktail Week has amplified this, bringing attention to the scene and drawing people from all over the country to experience it for themselves. Seeing Penang evolve into a recognised cocktail destination makes me feel that we’re accomplishing exactly what we set out to do: to make Penang a place known not only for its food but also for its drinks. If people now see Penang as a cocktail destination, then I can say I’ve accomplished my mission.