Last season might be thought of as fashion’s great reset, but don’t let that lull you into a false sense of security. Though the musical chairs of Spring/Summer 2026 have finally settled into place, the latter half of 2026 has come with its own slew of departures and arrivals across fashion’s major houses.
There have been a number of notable moves across the industry in recent months. Francesco Risso, formerly at Marni, launched his debut collection for mass retailer GU in July. Elsewhere, former Alaïa creative director Pieter Mulier showed his final collection for the house in March, eventually stepping into a new role at Versace in July. We got our first look at his vision for the brand thanks to Nicole Kidman, who hit the Practical Magic 2 red carpet in a lacy black Mulier creation.
More recently, Dario Vitale finally alighted at Emporio Armani following a shockingly short stint at Versace. The Italian creative will be responsible for both Emporio Armani designs and Giorgio Armani accessories, becoming the first outside the Armani family to hold the role. “I am honoured to take on this dual role, and deeply grateful to Silvana and Leo for welcoming me into their world,” said Vitale.
The latest major move, however, comes with little surprise. In a statement released on 9 October, the Kering group announced the departure of Anthony Vaccarello from Saint Laurent—a development which the industry had been anticipating for weeks.
Ahead, we round up the headlines about fashion’s major moves in 2026, from creative director exits to appointments.
Martine Rose Is Appointed The New Creative Director Of Balenciaga
Shortly after the announcement of Pierpaolo Piccioli’s departure, Balenciaga has found its new creative director in Martine Rose—the British-Jamaican designer famed for her subversive, edgy take on menswear.
Reports that Rose had signed a deal to replace Piccioli came as early as two weeks ago, while rumours had been circling for years. The designer first burst onto the fashion scene in 2007 with the founding of her eponymous label, which immediately drew attention for its distinctive blend of Jamaican heritage with sports, pop culture, music, and London’s underground subcultures. Rose’s design signatures favour oversized silhouettes and an unconventional approach to menswear, peppering it with texture and embellishment. Those very style codes have already made it to many a Balenciaga runway—Rose spent three years as a menswear consultant for the maison alongside Demna, inspiring much of his approach to streetwear.
“It is a true privilege to be appointed creative director of Balenciaga, a house with an extraordinary heritage and a fearless creative spirit,” Rose said in a statement. “Balenciaga has been shaped by remarkable creative talents before me. I am committed to honouring this legacy and look forward to creating the next chapter in this rich and beautiful story.” Kering CEO Luca de Meo and Balenciaga CEO Gianfranco Gianangeli expressed similar excitement in their statements, making reference to Rose’s ability to break boundaries and challenge design conventions.
It’s a telling choice of words following Piccioli’s departure. While the Italian designer attempted to steer the house in a romantic direction, all signs now point to a return to something a little more subversive and street-level—now with Rose’s distinct stamp of authorship.
Pierpaolo Piccioli Parts Ways With Balenciaga
Pierpaolo Piccioli is the latest creative director to be caught up in fashion’s great reshuffle. Following news of Anthony Vaccarello leaving Saint Laurent, Veronica Leoni exiting Calvin Klein, and Seán McGirr out at Alexander McQueen, the Kering group announced that Piccioli and Balenciaga were officially parting ways.
Piccioli took over the creative direction of Balenciaga in June of 2025, following 25 years at Valentino. At Balenciaga, the Italian designer succeeded the ever-provocative Demna—whose headline-stealing creations over the previous decade had thoroughly reoriented the house towards modern streetwear. Consequently, Piccioli’s task was twofold: grappling with both the maison’s storied legacy and the lasting image of his direct predecessor.
Piccioli’s approach was to lean into the romance and femininity that have long been his personal signatures, presenting two runway collections that put a lighter spin on the house’s codes. His Haute Couture collection was a particularly marked exploration of romance, merging classic Balenciaga silhouettes with florals, feathers, and a saturated palette of deep purples and lime greens. “In the end, our identity and our values are the only things we truly own. Remaining faithful to [them] is the only way to navigate what lies ahead with grace,” he wrote on Instagram. “There is a line by Pasolini that I always carry with me: ‘They will teach you not to shine. And you shine, instead.’”
While his successor is yet to be announced, Balenciaga’s president and CEO thanked Piccioli for his contribution to the brand. “Through his vision, he has reaffirmed the maison’s couture origins, bringing his distinctive approach to craftsmanship, garment construction and creativity,” he stated.
Seán McGirr Exits Alexander McQueen
In a statement released just an hour after Veronica Leoni’s departure from Calvin Klein, another major move echoed through the fashion industry. The Kering group announced that Seán McGirr, creative director of Alexander McQueen, would soon be exiting his role at the brand.
The CEOs of both Kering and Alexander McQueen thanked McGirr for his work at the brand over the last three years. “I want to thank Seán personally for everything he has brought to Alexander McQueen. He has approached the house with great respect for its history while expressing his own vision,” wrote Gianfranco D’Attis, president and CEO of the brand. “His talent and passion have helped us reconnect Alexander McQueen with London, its culture, and its extraordinary creative energy.”
The news comes on the heels of the brand’s much-anticipated homecoming to London Fashion Week after multiple seasons of showing in Paris. McGirr presented a Spring/Summer 2027 collection that paid homage to the edgy, avant-garde origins of the brand—featuring protruding horns, feathers, and medieval-inspired metallic work—as well as the grit and edge of London streets. A series of sharply tailored menswear looks were also created in collaboration with Savile Row tailoring studio Huntsman. “My vision for Alexander McQueen was grounded in the interplay between raw, visceral, human beauty, and the precision and rigour at the heart of the house,” said McGirr in a statement. “I am incredibly proud of the progressive energy we cultivated as a team.”
McGirr’s departure is not the only major change to happen at Kering recently—on 9 October, the group announced that creative director Anthony Vaccarello would be exiting Saint Laurent after ten years at the brand. While both Vaccarello and McGirr’s replacements are yet to be announced, CEO Luca de Meo stated that the moves signal a promising future for both brands. “Our ambition is to define a new and bold direction for Alexander McQueen,” he wrote in a statement. “Drawing on the maison’s unique heritage of sartorial excellence, uncompromising creativity and rebellious spirit, and reaffirming its place as one of the most innovative and culturally relevant voices in the luxury landscape.”
Veronica Leoni Departs Calvin Klein
After two years and four seasons, Veronica Leoni’s time as the creative director of Calvin Klein has come to an end. In a statement released on 15 October, the brand announced that Leoni would be exiting her role once her contract expired.
David Savman, global president of Calvin Klein, thanked Leoni for her creative vision and commitment over the last two years. “The relaunch of Collection has been a milestone for Calvin Klein,” he wrote in a statement. “Veronica’s exceptional talent, combined with her fresh perspective on Calvin’s iconic design codes, has helped give the brand a significant boost.”
The revitalisation of Calvin Klein’s premium runway line, Collection, was the bulk of Leoni’s directive at the house. Her debut show for Calvin Klein Collection came during the Fall/Winter 2025 season, following a four-year runway hiatus for the label after Raf Simons’ departure. As such, Leoni’s tenure coincided with an unusual period in Calvin Klein’s history. Between high-impact celebrity collaborations and the rise of CBK-style 90s minimalism, the brand’s position in the public imagination was strong—but for years, they had struggled to translate this into consistency and acclaim on the runway.
Leoni—whose resumé included names like Jil Sander, The Row, Phoebe Philo’s Celine, and her own critically acclaimed brand, Quiri—set about blending the house’s classic minimalism with her own quirkier approach to design. Many of her four runway collections featured masculine, boxy tailoring, plays on proportions, and intricate uses of texture and embellishment. She was the first woman to take the creative reins of Calvin Klein, and one of the few to do so at the time for a major luxury house.
While Leoni’s next steps and possible replacement are yet to be announced, Savman insisted that Calvin Klein’s runway arm remains integral to the house. “Collection remains a central part of our brand,” his statement read. “We are delighted with the progress made so far and look forward with confidence to its continued evolution.”
Anthony Vaccarello Exits Saint Laurent
On 9 September, the Kering group confirmed what the industry had been whispering about for weeks. After spending a decade as the creative director of Saint Laurent, Anthony Vaccarello is officially exiting the brand.
Speculation surrounding Vaccarello’s exit was rife leading up to his Spring/Summer 2027 show at Paris Fashion Week. It resulted in a surprisingly poignant final showing for the designer, illuminated by the sparkling lights of the Eiffel Tower and a massive chandelier suspended over the runway. The collection was a glittering exploration of Saint Laurent codes, where safari jackets and tailored tuxedos were shown in shades of gold and bronze—and as if to end on a curtain call, the finale featured ten straight looks in all black.
The designer had taken on the role of Saint Laurent creative director in 2016 from his predecessor Hedi Slimane, and immediately set about making his mark on the maison. In 2023, Vaccarello spearheaded the launch of Saint Laurent Productions, making them the first luxury brand to own a full-fledged film production studio (which counted the film Emilia Pérez among its most notable projects). Vaccarello’s era at Saint Laurent was also marked by a consistency of vision, often seen in repetition and interrogation of similar silhouettes. Last season’s womenswear collection even featured seven versions of the classic Le Smoking tuxedo, before showing multiple iterations of a lacy silicone evening dress. The designer also distinguished himself by consistently exploring sex appeal and sensuality in an era where many turned towards provocation. Vaccarello’s successor is yet to be announced.
“I would like to express my sincere gratitude to Anthony for his contribution to Saint Laurent over the past ten years,” said Kering CEO Luca de Meo in a statement. “Through his creative vision and exacting standards, he has contributed to strengthening the enduring influence of one of France’s greatest couture Houses, as we embark on a new chapter in its history.”
This article originally appeared on Grazia Singapore.
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