"As soon as I heard about the brand we would be bringing here, I got excited because I love making desserts with matcha and drinking matcha, too.”
WITH over a decade of experience in casual dining, and a mastery of marketing management and restaurant operations, Chef Sonny Mariano has established himself as a seasoned executive in the Philippine culinary landscape. Since joining the Tasteless Food Group (TFG) in 2019, Mariano has overseen the group’s pastry portfolio, including the 2022 launch of the celebrated Japanese brand, The Matcha Tokyo.
“As soon as I heard about the brand we would be bringing here, I got excited because I love making desserts with matcha and drinking matcha, too,” Mariano told The Manila Times.
Beyond the green tea specialist, Mariano manages Scout’s Honor in Uptown Mall, and the Seafood and Oyster Bar in Robinsons Magnolia. His role is multifaceted, leading brand innovation by developing menu items tailored to the Filipino palate.
“Working with our big team, we ensure that every product reflects our brand identity while enhancing the overall experience,” Mariano said. “Of course, we maintain consistent quality and aesthetic presentation. We also make sure we are up-to-date, regularly checking trends here and abroad.”
The green revolution
After three years as head chef of The Matcha Tokyo, Mariano is overseeing an aggressive expansion. From an initial launch, the brand has grown to 16 branches, with approximately 15 more in the pipeline. The reach now extends far beyond Metro Manila to Davao, Cebu, Iloilo and Bacolod, with upcoming locations in Zamboanga and Cagayan de Oro. This month, the brand also marked its international debut in Guam.
Success, however, came with the challenge of education. When The Matcha Tokyo first opened, Mariano encountered a significant hurdle: the Filipino misconception of what matcha should taste like.
“Many people used to think matcha was supposed to be bitter because the quality we had before in the Philippines wasn’t good,” Mariano explained. “When we started, we received a few complaints that our matcha ‘didn’t taste like matcha’ since it wasn’t bitter. We are happy to explain that we only use 100 percent organic matcha, which provides a balance of sweet, earthy and umami notes.”
The vibrant hue of the drinks also raised eyebrows.
“Some thought we used food coloring because our drinks are bright green, but we don’t. That’s just how the best quality matcha should look,” he added.
To keep the menu exciting, Mariano has spearheaded high-profile collaborations. Earlier this year, a partnership with Chef David of El Born produced a viral Matcha and Hojicha Basque Cheesecake. Currently, the group is collaborating with Chef Nouel Catis — creator of the viral Dubai chocolate recipe — for its holiday specials.
Culinary reality
Mariano’s path to the kitchen was not the one he initially envisioned. As a young boy, he dreamed of becoming a doctor. However, his parents noticed his penchant for copying recipes from television and helping his grandmother cook for town fiestas.
“They encouraged me to try culinary arts, and I didn’t hesitate to say yes,” he recalled. “I realized it was the perfect fit for me.”
After graduating from the Center for Culinary Arts Manila, Mariano started as a line cook in a bank lounge. Seeking a more creative outlet, he joined the Pancake House Group as a product development chef. Recognizing a gap in his expertise, he traveled to the United States to train specifically in a pastry kitchen.
“I noticed I needed to strengthen my skills in baking and pastry because I was having a hard time finding a consultant-partner to handle the desserts for my projects,” he said. Upon his return, he became a versatile consultant, a role he has maintained for nearly eight years with brands like Selecta Ice Cream.
Admitting to being a “workaholic,” Mariano manages four brands under TFG and four independent concepts, leaving him with virtually no days off. His typical weekend involves meeting his team to discuss goals, followed by rigorous recipe testing and tasting.
“I usually prefer staying longer at work rather than just going home and doing nothing,” he said. “It’s a lot to juggle, but since I truly love what I do, it feels fulfilling. I always remind myself that I once wished to be this busy.”
Living alone in Manila while his family remains in the province, Mariano finds comfort in the small things. His family supports him from afar, sending frozen packs of his favorite home-cooked meals like sinampalukan and tinumis.
While he remains focused on growing the TFG brands, Mariano continues to draw inspiration from every mentor and colleague he meets. “Growth doesn’t come from just one person’s influence, but from all the combined learnings from everyone who can inspire us to be better,” he said.
For now, he has no plans to open his own restaurant, content to lend his expertise to the brands that need it most. As he balances research and development in his Manila kitchen with market visits to Guam and the provinces, Mariano’s primary focus remains clear: perfecting the art of the experience, one whisk of matcha at a time.
A connoisseur’s guide to matcha grades
To fully appreciate the work of Chef Sonny Mariano at The Matcha Tokyo, it is essential to understand that not all matcha is created equal. The quality is determined by the timing of the harvest, the position of the leaves on the tea plant and the meticulousness of the stone-grinding process.
Whether you are whisking a traditional bowl of tea or baking a vibrant cheesecake, choosing the right grade is the first step to success.
Ceremonial grade (the gold standard)
This is the highest quality matcha available, intended to be consumed traditionally — whisked only with hot water.
– Harvest: Made from the youngest, most tender leaves of the very first harvest (spring).
– Appearance: A vibrant, almost “electric” neon green.
– Flavor profile: Delicate, naturally sweet and creamy with a potent “umami” finish. It has zero bitterness.
– Texture: Extremely fine, like talcum powder, achieved through slow stone-grinding.
Premium or latte grade
As used in high-end specialty cafés, this grade is designed to hold its own when paired with milk or sweeteners.
– Harvest: Usually a blend of first and second harvest leaves.
– Appearance: Bright forest green.
– Flavor profile: Features a slight, pleasant astringency (bitterness) that balances the richness of milk in a latte or the sugar in a frappe.
Best for: Matcha lattes, iced matcha and smoothies.
Culinary grade
This grade is meant to be an ingredient rather than a stand-alone drink. It is robust enough to maintain its flavor even after being baked at high temperatures.
– Harvest: Sourced from later harvests (summer or autumn) using older, more mature leaves lower on the stem.
– Appearance: A duller, brownish-green or olive hue.
– Flavor profile: Strong, bold and distinctly bitter. It is meant to be masked by flour, sugar and fats in recipes.
– Best for: Cookies, cakes, ice cream and savory sauces.
***Quick QuestionsWhat is your biggest fear?
Losing this passion.
What really makes you angry?
Liars.
What motivates you to work hard?
Good results and people’s reaction to the dishes I’ve made.
What makes you laugh the most?
Funny memes.
What would you do if you won the lotto?
Buy a house with a huge and complete kitchen.
If you could share a meal with any individual, living or dead, who would they be?
With my family.
What was the last book you read?
The pastry book of Chef Editha Singian. She, herself, gave it to me.
Where do you see yourself in 10 years?
Relaxing. That’s why I work hard now. (Laughed)
Which celebrity would you like to meet for a cup of coffee?
Chef Heston Blumenthal. The chef I look up to.
What is the most daring thing you have ever done?
From working in a full-time job to doing freelancer/consultant.
What is the one thing you will never do again?
Pushing myself too hard to the point of getting burnout.