After visiting Mexico City, my wife and I took a 5-hour bus ride to Oaxaca. The journey is through dry arid mountains and plains with dusty little villages and towns. It is a world of difference from the concrete jungle of megalopolis Mexico City.
Tall cactus pointing towards the hot sun stand tall with dry scrawny trees and shrubs. My wife thought she saw vast pineapple plantations from the bus windows. We later realize these were actually agave, from which Mezcal , a cousin of the more well-known Mexican alcohol, tequila.
Oaxaca is major Mezcal producer, and they have a wide range of selections which you can sample from the many Mezcal shops.
Inner Oaxaca city hasn’t changed much since the Spanish colonial times. The streets and sidewalks are cobblestone paved and the buildings low rise , colorful with ornate metal window grills and balconies. Inside are beautiful and shady courtyards to escape the afternoon sun.
The heart and soul of this city is Zocalo, a huge square teeming with people and life. Restaurants , shops , and Oaxaca’s largest church, Catedral Metropolitan surround the square.
Under the shade of huge trees, people gather to play, eat , drink , people watch and protest peacefully. Since 2014,teachers have staged a protest here against government changes to state education.
At night, huge bands play and there is singing and dancing. Nearby, there is comedy and acts by clowns which draw loud laughter and applause. Or if you can’t dance or understand Spanish, just sit and watch the zest of living by the locals.
When the hot weather gets to you or if you feel the night chill , get the other famous Oaxaca beverage , chocolate , from the Mayordomo café. Hot or cold, this is a must try.
Other must try are the variety of fabulous food , especially from the many mercados(markets) , near Zocalo.
Mola, enchiladas, soups, grilled meat, snacks and cold drinks are served by small restaurants at reasonable prices nestled among shops selling species, clothes, souvenirs , liquor, baked goods , fruits , fresh meat and vegetables. It is an overload for the sight, smell, and taste senses and stomach.
Templo de Santo Domingo is the most beautiful and iconic church in Oaxaca . It is Spanish baroque, and its high vaults are beautifully decorated with intricate and ornate patterns. The huge altarpiece is renowned for the lavish ornaments and is completely gilded with gold leaf.
Adjoining the church is the Museo de las Culturas de Oaxaca with extensive exhibits of the ancient region’s civilizations. Stunning treasures from Tomb 7 of Mount Alban, are absolutely amazing and enthralling.
Interesting fact from a guide was that many of the churches in Oaxaca are interconnected by a maze of tunnels underneath. The giveaway sign is an opening with steps on the church’s floor covered with metal grill. This was how back in the old days the worshippers to move from church to church when they celebrated festivities and holy days and apparently, they have more of these than the 365 days in a year.
The Oaxaca Botanical Garden behind the church has a large collection of cacti and agave plants where you wander amongst these plants. It was well worth our while despite being scorched by the sun.
The city’s cobblestone streets are made not only for wandering into the churches and museums but also for peeking into the courtyards of restaurants, shops and libraries.
The city’s double story library courtyard was of such cool and simplistic architecture charm with fountains, balconies, wrought iron railings and plants. We spend an hour just wandering around the corridors and soaking in its beauty.
In a smaller museum, a different courtyard just blew me away. A minimalist courtyard surrounded by high white walls, a blue mural on one face and three huge trees with their huge canopies providing shade. Just that, but it captivates effortless serenity, natural coolness and zen.
A must when in Oaxaca is Mt. Alban , a massive archaeological city built by the Zapotecs over 1,500 years ago.
It is on a hilltop overlooking Oaxaca featuring a main plaza surrounded by large pyramidal mounds on which stood temples and elite residences. Scattered around were tombs, carved stone monuments and ballcourts for the ancient ritual ball game , tlachtli.
The main plaza is said to be able to hold the whole population of Mount Alban for state ceremonies. If you shout against the steps of the mounds at a certain time of the day, your voice will echo back. Just imagine, the noise generated from thousands of people when they shouted or cheered in unison, it must have reverberated far away to the valleys below.
Oaxaca, past and present is a city which resonates with life .
Koo Wee Hon (kooweehon@gmail.com) is a content creator under the Newswav Creator programme, where you get to express yourself, be a citizen journalist, and at the same time monetize your content & reach millions of users on Newswav. Log in to creator.newswav.com and become a Newswav Creator now!
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