Penang mourns Air Itam Laksa legend Ang Kak Seong, whose iconic stall earned global fame and shaped Malaysia’s hawker food heritage.
GEORGE TOWN: The Malaysian culinary world is in mourning following the passing of Ang Kak Seong, the veteran proprietor of the world-renowned Air Itam Market Laksa stall.
He was 77.
The news was confirmed by Air Itam Assemblyman Joseph Ng, who took to social media to express his sympathies.
Ng stated that Ang passed away peacefully, surrounded by his loved ones.
“Deepest condolences to Ang’s family on the loss of their beloved father. He was surrounded by his loving family at the time of his passing.
“We will miss the sight of him standing in front of his stall, serving hot and delicious laksa to customers,” Ng wrote in a tribute.
Ang’s stall was more than a local eatery; it was a global landmark for food enthusiasts. Under his stewardship, the stall’s signature Penang Asam Laksa achieved international stardom, notably securing the seventh spot on CNN’s World’s 50 Best Foods list in 2020.
The business, which has operated for over six decades, was originally established by Ang’s parents. However, the legendary stall faced significant turbulence in recent years.
During the height of the Covid-19 pandemic in May 2021, the stall was forced into a temporary closure.
The hiatus was attributed to a sharp decline in footfall and a highly publicised struggle involving family debts. To the relief of many loyal patrons, the stall made a resilient comeback in December 2021 after being shuttered for six months.
The passing of Ang Kak Seong marks the end of an era for Penang’s hawker heritage, leaving behind a legacy that put Air Itam on the global gastronomic map.
