CEMENTERIO del Norte, or the North Cemetery of Manila, claims to be the oldest from 1904 when it was laid out. It cannot be the oldest. There must have been one in Intramuros, where people were living from the 16th century. Then there was Paco Cemetery, where Rizal was first buried after his execution.
Nevertheless, the North Cemetery, known informally as “Norte,” is a historical icon that brings us close to historical figures and historical moments of our national life.
Originally called Paang Bundok and next to La Loma Cemetery, it was conceived as a cemetery for the city of Manila. It probably was a hilly place at the terminal end of the city from the name. The terrain attracted the establishment of the Chinese Cemetery in the late 19th century also nearby and antedating Norte. La Loma, which is from 1884, and is owned by the archdiocese of Manila in the same area, is the oldest.
Cemeteries can be tourist spots from the architecture they have for the burial structures and from the well-known people buried there. The tomb styles indicate the times they were built and the influences that were reigning then. Thus in Norte, we have pyramids and sphinxes in one clan’s mausoleum as well as pylons with statues on top of one another. There are also dedicated structures for Veterans of the Revolution, for firefighters, for 25 fire victims from the tragedy of the Asociacion de Damas de Filipinas fire before World War II. Many presidents are buried in Norte — Roxas and Magsaysay, as well as prominent government personalities like Arsenio Lacson and Antonio Villegas, who were mayors of Manila. Francis Burton Harrison, who Filipinized the civil service when he was the American governor of the Philippines, is also buried in Norte. There are actors, sports figures, philanthropists, elite families and well-known gangsters, too. There are also places for the Jewish community and for Masons. Many of Rizal’s sisters and relatives like his parents and brother were originally buried there until transferred to other places. Gen. Macario Sakay, who resisted American rule and was executed for it, is buried in Norte in an unknown grave.
During World War II, atrocities were committed there by Japanese troops. Among them were 28 martyrs who were identified by a witness after the war and for which a memorial to them was built. Among them were Rafael “Liling” Roces, a guerrilla leader; Jose Fortich Ozamiz, a former senator; and Manuel Arguilla, a famous writer, all of whom resisted Japanese rule.
Norte is a well-laid-out cemetery, but since the postwar period, it has taken on a chaotic character from the large number of informal settlers who have since lived among the tombs. It is now 80 years after the war and the homelessness, lack of decent housing that resulted from war effects remains with yet no apparent push for a solution to provide the necessary decent and dignified housing conditions. This condition goes for other cemeteries in the country, notably Cebu Cemetery, which has also informal settlers.
The informal settlers in Norte, who build houses among the tombs or over the tombs, or take over mausoleums to live in, do not seem to be complaining either. They claim that the cemetery is safer than the slums and much quieter. They also get jobs as caretakers of certain family tombs which become a necessity for their owners when some of them decide to sleep on tombs, picnic among them and leave trash. It is estimated that there are 10,000 to 50,000 living in Norte though no formal census seems to have been taken. Nor any study to see how long families stay, or if they leave for better places, or stay for generations. This would be an interesting sociological study that might promote some attempt at a solution. Anecdotal evidence shows families that have lived there for as long as 40 years and counting.
I noted some parked cars that seemed to be in long-term parking mode indicating possible car owners among the informal settlers. Definitely, they have electricity, television and radio, as well as sari-sari stores.
It is a living village among the tombs of the dead.
