SHAH ALAM, Oct 6 — “人山人海,” literally “people mountain, people sea,” is one of my favourite Chinese idioms.
It's a phrase that comes to mind often, but nowhere more fitting than at Restoran Hatinie in Seksyen 10, Shah Alam.
When we arrived on a Saturday morning, we were greeted by a crush of people packed into two shop lots, spilling over tables and filling every corner.
"It’s always busy – except just before it closes," my colleague had warned, and the throng of diners seemed determined to prove him right.
The scale of the operation was staggering. One entire shop lot was devoted solely to row upon row of lauk, where eight or nine different varieties of fried fish lined one section, and nearly 20 more dishes – gulai, rendang and daging masak kicap, to name a few – were bountifully displayed in the centre.
It felt like a feast that could rival some hotel buffets, but the buzz and energy here were on a completely different level.
The constant stream of people was matched only by the steady flow of trolleys from the kitchen, replenishing everything from ulam to ayam percik.
Out front, there were two separate sections for nasi dagang and nasi kerabu (plus a laksam station), the former adorned with large, deep woks of gulai ikan tongkol while the latter featured wide baskets of kerabu and ayam goreng kunyit.
We’ve all eaten nasi campur or zhap fan before, right? I shouldn’t have to walk you through the experience of piling your plate with food (sometimes too high, if you’re anything like me) and paying at the counter.
But if you’ve somehow avoided this your whole life – perhaps thanks to a mix of wealth and sheltered privilege? – call me. I’ve got a Billy Joel song you need to hear.
The total bill, with three drinks, came to RM69.96. This included a plate each of nasi kerabu (with ayam bakar) and nasi dagang (with ayam goreng kunyit), another of plain rice with ayam berlado hijau, ayam masak merah, daging salai masak lemak and begedil; and because we’re gluttons, another plate of ikan keli goreng with a piece each of ayam percik and the less common putih version.
The latter is ideal for kids and those who can’t take spice, as the absence of chillies allows the creamy santan to really impose itself onto your tongue.
It should go without saying that I enjoyed everything we tried, but a few dishes were a cut above the rest.
Generously ladled over the nasi dagang, the gulai ikan tongkol was remarkable. While I’m not a fan of eating the actual fish – it tends to have a cardboard-like texture – the gravy itself was deeply complex, marked by its characteristically tangy sourness.
I may be biased because I love ayam berlado in all its forms, but the hijau version here was great, a perfect balance of spicy and savoury that hit the spot.
The daging salai masak lemak captured the smokiness of the beef in its creamy, fiery gravy, but be careful not to bite into the belimbing, which is added for its potent acidity.
As we sat attempting to digest our meal, I noticed the crowd hadn’t thinned, nor had it surged – just a steady stream of young families, old families, and... wait, is that one massive family?
The business has been around since 1982, and it’s clear that Hatinie has fed generations of this community. Long may it continue.
Oh, and the begedil? Simply superb – bursting at the seams with minced beef and onions!
Restoran Hatinie
18 & 20, Jalan Selendang 10/10, Seksyen 10, 40100 Shah Alam, Selangor
Open daily, 7.30am-6pm. Closes at 4pm on Sundays.
Closed every second Monday of the month.
Tel: 019-266 7810
Facebook: @RestoranHatinie
* This is an independent review where the writer paid for the meal.
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