When the sourness makes you squint and the spice makes you cry, you’ve met som tam. A beloved street food dish that hails from the northeast of Thailand, som tam is a must-eat whether you’re a visitor or a local. Best paired with a selection of other Isan dishes and some good company, here’s our pick of the best som tam spots in Bangkok the next time you’re visiting the Land of Smiles.
What is som tam?
While many in Singapore know this beloved dish as a papaya salad, it is far-flung from your regular fruit salad. While its origins remain unclear, in Laos and in Thailand’s northeastern region of Isan, the words ‘tam som’ refer to “pounding or crushing something sour as a main ingredient,” according to the Michelin Guide.
In Thailand today, som tam is prepared using shredded unripe papaya, as well as lime, chili, fish sauce, and palm sugar. Additional ingredients vary depending on where you get your som tam, and can include dried shrimp, Thai eggplant, cherry tomatoes, garlic, or hog plums. In place of papaya, some prepare som tam with cucumber, mango, pomelo, or corn. All the ingredients are pounded together in a mortar and pestle, so if you spot this from afar, you know you’re in the right place.
The most popular som tam dishes in Bangkok include those made with fermented fish (pla raa) or pickled crab. These are commonly consumed with sticky rice (use your hands!) and served alongside grilled chicken, pork neck, or pork rinds for a full meal.
Whether you like to enjoy your som tam street-side like a local or indoors for more comfort, here’s where to get the best som tam in Bangkok for any budget. If you don’t have a high spice tolerance, don’t forget to notify the kitchen when you order. No matter how you enjoy it, we hope it’s so very zaap.
Where to get really good som tam in Bangkok
Phed Phed
If you seek Isan favourites that don’t hold back on spice, Phed Phed is a trusted choice. With various branches across Bangkok, this popular local restaurant is known for its herbal and spicy offerings, especially its som tam. There are plenty of options to choose from, with som tam selections spanning fermented fish sauce types, salted fish types, and even fruit-based (beyond papaya) som tam. Though you’ll need a high spice tolerance, you’ll need patience, too: queues at Phed Phed are usually very long, especially at lunch time.
Address: Phed Phed has various branches and chains across Bangkok, including Phed Phed Cafe, Phed Phed POP, and Phed Phed HEY
More Info: Phed Phed Food
Zao Isan
Zao Isan caused plenty of hype when it opened, bringing to Bangkok all the funky flavours the Isan region is so known and loved for. Hailing from Ubon Ratchathani, the Bangkok outposts of Zao Isan are very popular with a crowd seeking authentic flavours and lesser-known Isan menu items. The som tam selection features all your heavy hitters: stinky beans, pork sausage, and even chicken feet. To extend your appetite, definitely also try Isan-style noodles at the sister brand, Zao Zen.
Address: There are various branches across Bangkok: Emsphere, Siam Paragon, One Bangkok
More Info: Zao Isan
Som Tam Jay So
For those who want a true street-side som tam experience, it’s got to be Silom’s Som Tam Jay So. Here, the menu is simple and price-friendly (from THB 50), yet offers enough variety for the som tam lover. You’ll find all the classics here: blue crab, salted egg, pork neck, or even Korat-style som tam. While the plastic stools feel casual and the family-run business is friendly, definitely beware of the solid kick of spice.
Address: 146 Phiphat 2, Silom, Bangkok
Laab Ubon Kontrakan
Granted, Laab Ubon is more specialised in minced meat salads, but their som tam selection is still pretty strong. Beloved with the late-night folk, highlights here feature all the classics done very well, as well as more niche versions made with stalk lotus and shrimp, pickled shells, or spicy scallops. Especially useful when the nightly som tam craving hits when in Bangkok, Laab Ubon is open until 4am and has a super casual outdoor street food setting that’s best enjoyed with friends.
Address: 251 6 South Sathorn Road, Sathorn, Bangkok
More Info: Laab Ubon
Tamnak Isan Ekkamai
Located in the glitzy Bangkok neighbourhood of Ekkamai, Tamnak prides itself in serving authentic Isan food, and their selection does not disappoint. Prepare your sticky rice for dipping into countless spicy salads, and slurping plenty of herbaceous broths. Tamnak’s som tam menu is straightforward, and can be ordered with pickled oysters, raw shrimp, salted crab, or rice noodles, to name a few.
Address: 86 1 Sukhumvit Road, Phra Khanong, Bangkok
More Info: Tamnak Isan Ekkamai
Jaekoy Isaan Seafood
Jaekoy is most famous for its som tam, though this Thai restaurant actually serves much more than that. Highlights include the corn and salted egg som tam, long bean som tam, and cucumber som tam, though other dishes worth trying also include the Thai-style salmon salad (yam) and raw prawns with traditional Thai seafood sauce. It’s in the name: Isan seafood is their specialty.
Address: 14 Petchaburi 12, Ratchathewi, Bangkok
More Info: Jaekoy Isaan Seafood
Som Tum Khun Kan
For those who like to follow the Michelin Guide, this som tam spot has been honoured with a Bib Gourmand for seven consecutive years now. Located in Phra Khanong, Som Tum Khun Kan’s speciality is the classic som tam with dried shrimp and peanuts. Other highlights include the deep fried minced shrimp with mango salad, grilled pork shoulder with herbs, and roasted chicken thigh with herbs. Get them all, and you’ve got yourself a perfect meal.
Address: 6 Wachiratham Sathit 23, Bang Chak, Phra Khanong, Bangkok
More Info: Som Tum Khun Kan
Madam Somtum
We may be biased because this one’s near our office, but it always hits the spot come lunch break. The menu is big at Madam Somtum, but it’s important to stay focused on what they do best. The som tam selection sees all the classic contenders from traditional Thai or Korat styles over to additions of mussels, mixed fruit, or noodles. There’s also minced salads (larb) and a good selection of grilled meats to pair.
Address: 888/14 Phloen Chit Road, Pathum Wan, Bangkok
More Info: Madam Somtum
Somtum Der
If you’ve got a lunch date in Silom, Somtum Der is a great option to check out. Here, the som tam menu is vast, and features dishes not found at many other places. Whether you have it with bamboo shoots, fried chicken and Mama noodles, or spicy mango and crispy fish, you’re bound to find something that satisfies your taste buds. There is a selection of grilled Isan-style salads, too.
Address: 5, 5 Sala Daeng Road, Bangkok, and 107, Soi Tha Suphan, Phra Boom Maha Ratchawang, Phra Nano, Bangkok
More Info: Somtum Der
Somtamnua
Somtamnua is a classic, fail-safe som tam chain known widely in Bangkok. You won’t get the street-side experience here, but you’ll get pretty images and clear descriptions in the menu, as well as clean, more approachable flavours on your plate. It’s a great starting point, with all the classic som tam available, whether you have it with dry shrimp, pork sausage, or corn. There are also more creative renditions such as shredded green mango, Thai pork sausage, or Laotian-style som tam.
Address: Som Tam Nua has various branches across Bangkok
More Info: Somtamnua
Baan Somtum
With a name that translates to ‘house of som tam,’ you know you’re in good hands. The som tam menu is large here, spanning classic papaya, cucumber, or long bean, and crab, oyster, or Vietnamese sausage as toppings. Unique offerings include the Thai carrot som tam, the coconut tips som tam, or the very interesting batter fried papaya with som tum sauce.
Address: Baan Somtum has various branches across Bangkok
More Info: Baan Somtum
(Hero and featured image credit: @zaoisan/Instagram and Phed Phed)