The stone faces of the Bayon Temple in the ancient city of Angkor Thom have been smiling for centuries – yet today, they go almost unseen.
It is strangely quiet at this and the other temples of Angkor, despite this being a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Even at Angkor Wat – the world’s largest religious building, constructed in the 12th century – only a few hundred onlookers are marvelling at the sunrise.
It is not hard to find a spot to take a selfie at what is known as the eighth wonder of the world, with its five iconic towers in the background.
"I expected it to be much more crowded; after all, this temple is an absolute dream destination for many," says a young German tourist in surprise.
Tomb Raider temple without tourists
It is just as eerily calm at Ta Prohm, overgrown by jungle. Just one couple poses in front of the massive tree roots, which bound over walls like huge snakes and wind their way through windows.
There are no large tourist groups to be seen. Nearby, a guide spells out the secrets of the mystical stone ruins to a family from France. “At the moment, you’ve got most of the temples almost to yourself. When I was here for the first time 15 years ago, you had to queue up for every photo,” says another German woman.
Ta Prohm was the film set for the 2001 blockbuster “Lara Croft: Tomb Raider” starring Angelina Jolie and has been known as the “Lara Croft Temple” ever since. That triggered a tourist rush in the past.
But even decades before, the spectacular archaeological park was one of the world’s dream destinations.
But many are afraid to come. “The border conflict between Thailand and Cambodia, which flared up again last year, is certainly the main reason for the decline in visitors,” says local tour guide Sin Peng.
The age-old dispute between the neighbours has been smouldering since colonial times and heavy fighting broke out last July. It escalated in December and people were killed on both sides – including civilians.
The conflict is about history, pride and the course of the 800-kilometre-long border between the nations. Time and again, the conflict flares up over the ruins of the over 1,000-year-old Preah Vihear temple, which both countries see as their cultural heritage.
But tourists need not fear. The fighting took place hundreds of kilometres away from the Angkor temples and ceased after a short time thanks to a ceasefire. Yet many travellers were and are still unsettled. Plus, all land crossings also remain closed until further notice.
For travellers, the region around Siem Reap is considered safe. Foreign Ministries including the German Foreign Office have issued travel advisories exclusively for the immediate border area with Thailand, more than 200 kilometres further north. At present, there is no sign of the conflict for visitors to the temples.
Nonetheless, the usual precautions naturally apply, such as avoiding large crowds and being wary of pickpockets.
Several causes for slump
Besides the border conflict, there are other factors responsible for the slump: wars and conflicts around the world, increasing economic pressure and rising airfares have also dampened the desire to travel, says newspaper the Khmer Times.
But travel guide Sin Peng says the new airport east of Siem Reap is also partly to blame. If you ask hotel staff or restaurant owners on Pub Street – the heart of Siem Reap’s nightlife – they agree.
“The airport is simply too far away, which makes the journey to the hotel extremely expensive,” says the driver of a remorque. That’s the name given to the traditional motorbike tuk-tuks in Cambodia, which are available everywhere for short journeys within Siem Reap. Their business is also coming under pressure.
For a 15-minute ride to a night market, the man himself charges just $1, a sign of how desperate things are now. Tourists may want to consider the fact that a ride in a remorque is not only fun, but also helps the self-employed drivers and their families.
US dollars have been the most important currency in this poor country – for decades, alongside the Cambodian riel – helping to stabilise the economy. ATMs everywhere dispense both currencies and tourist areas show prices in dollars.
As for the airport, Siem Reap Angkor International Airport opened in 2023 and has replaced the former airport, located just eight kilometres from Siem Reap. The new, multi-billion-dollar facility, was financed by China to protect the temples from vibrations and aircraft noise.
And the government predicted the old airport would soon be bursting at the seams. But temple tourism has not really recovered since the pandemic, leaving the spacious halls of the new airport mainly empty.
This is also down to the fact that there are no direct flights from Europe to the UNESCO World Heritage site. The arrivals board reveals that all flights come from Asian cities such as Bangkok, Kuala Lumpur or Singapore.
Nonetheless, anyone heading to the stone testimonies of Khmer culture will currently enjoy a magnificent trip.
Exploring Angkor Wat, Bayon, Ta Prohm and all the other breathtaking temples when they are so empty, and strolling in peace through their light-filled ruins embraced by the jungle, is an unforgettable experience.
