Whether it’s the result of a late night, an early morning or simply a bad night’s sleep, tiredness has a habit of showing itself sometimes before you even feel it – and there’s a reason for that.
According to consultant dermatologist at the Cadogan Clinic Dr Kristina Semkova, “poor sleep can affect the skin barrier, hydration and circulation, which can leave the complexion looking duller and less radiant.
“Overnight the skin normally has time to repair and renew itself, so when sleep is disrupted, we may notice the difference the following morning.”
While no serum or concealer can substitute for sleep, there are some skincare and make-up tricks that can help you look a little more awake in the meantime.
1. Cool down puffy eyes
A classic tell of tiredness is puffy eyes, and while eye patches are marketed as the godsend for depuffing, you don’t need to shell out on pricey products to make a difference.
“Cold can genuinely help, although the effect is temporary,” explains Semkova, “applying something cool to the skin causes the blood vessels near the surface to constrict and can reduce the appearance of swelling.”
She suggests a chilled spoon or refrigerated eye gel for a couple of minutes.
“Gentle facial massage can also help temporarily by encouraging movement of excess fluid through the lymphatic system.
“The key word is gentle. There is no need to press or rub aggressively, particularly around the eyes,” she says.
A caffeine-containing eye cream can also offer a quick solution.
“[Caffeine] can temporarily reduce the appearance of puffiness by constricting blood vessels,” says Semkova, but you should manage your expectations.
“No eye cream can completely compensate for a lack of sleep or eliminate fluid retention permanently,” she continues.
The Inkey List Caffeine Eye Cream, £12
PIXI AntioxifEYE Eye Mask Goggles – Three Masks, £6, Look Fantastic
2. Hydrate before reaching for foundation
Tired skin often looks duller because it’s dehydrated, making texture and fine lines more noticeable.
But before you lather on more moisturiser, Semkova says to look at the ingredients to make sure you’re actually getting hydration as opposed to using oils that just sit on top of the skin.
“Hyaluronic acid is a humectant, meaning it attracts and holds water in the skin. It can temporarily plump the surface of dehydrated skin, making fine lines look softer and giving complexion a smoother, fresher appearance,” she says.
Semkova recommends using a hydrating serum followed by moisturiser – and crucially doing so while the skin is still slightly damp.
“This can help reduce that tight, dry feeling and allows your moisturiser to lock in some of the water at the surface.”
If dullness is a longer-term concern, she suggests incorporating the active ingredient of vitamin C into your routine.
“With consistent use, it can help improve uneven pigmentation and give the complexion a more even appearance,” she says, although “it is a longer-term ingredient rather than an instant fix”.
La Roche-Posay Hyalu B5 Suractivated Serum, £45, Boots
Garnier Brightening Serum 4% Vitaminc C Niacinamide & Salicylic Acid Anti Dark Spots, £13.99, Boots
3. Don’t conceal your entire under-eye
After skincare, you may turn to make-up to help irradicate signs of tiredness.
And when dark circles are particularly noticeable, the temptation can be to cover the whole area with a thick layer of concealer.
But according to New York-based make-up artist Laura Geller, that’s exactly what not to do.
“The biggest mistake I see is using too much concealer! You really don’t need to cover the entire under-eye area.”
Instead, she says you should work out where the darkness is actually coming from; “I like to focus product only where you actually see darkness, usually around the inner corners of the eyes and anywhere there’s a little extra shadowing.”
The texture of your concealer matters, too. Geller recommends choosing a lightweight, creamy concealer rather than a heavy formula, particularly on more mature skin.
“You want something that moves with the skin, brightens the area and doesn’t settle into fine lines,” she says.
“My advice is always to start with a tiny amount and build only where you need it – a little goes a long way!”
Laura Geller Ideal Fix Concealer, £18 (was £27)
4. Try the ‘three Es’
If you’ve only got a few minutes, Geller focuses on what she calls the “three Es” – eyeliner, eyelashes and eyebrows.
“Those three things can make such a difference in waking up the entire eye area,” she says.
And while black eyeliner might seem like the obvious choice for defining tired eyes, something softer can be more flattering and actually make you look less tired.
“Instead of reaching for a really harsh black liner, try a softer shade like brown. It gives you beautiful definition without making the eyes look too heavy.”
Next, curl your lashes and concentrate mascara at the roots, lifting the lashes upwards and outwards to help open up the eye.
Then finally, don’t neglect the brows, which can make the biggest difference in waking up the face, says Geller, “a little definition can instantly frame and lift the eye area.”
KIKO Milano Intense Colour Long Lasting Eyeliner in 03 Pearly Bronze, £8.99, Look Fantastic
5. Put the colour back into your face
If tiredness has left your complexion looking washed out, blush can add a bit more life instead of adding more foundation.
“Blush is one of my favourite ways to instantly bring life back into the face,” Geller says, who recommends applying it to the apples of the cheeks and blending slightly upwards towards the temples for a fresh and lifted effect.
Bronzer, meanwhile, should provide subtle warmth rather than an obvious stripe of contour.
“I like to lightly sweep it around the forehead, along the cheekbones, and around the jawline,” Geller says.
Finish with a small amount of highlighter on the high points of the face, particularly the tops of the cheekbones, if you feel you’re still looking particularly flat.
“The key with highlighter but also all three is to keep everything soft and blended so the skin looks fresh and radiant.”
Ilia Beauty Multi-Stick Cream Blush, £36, Space NK
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