Chandeliers and chaos: Mexico City Metro’s palace-style makeover sparks local fury

11 Jun 2026 • 9:48 PM MYT
The Independent
The Independent

The world’s most free-thinking newspaper

Chandeliers and chaos: Mexico City Metro’s palace-style makeover sparks local fury

The cosmetic makeover that authorities have attempted to give the capital as visitors arrive from around the globe also has become a symbol of criticisms that the government is prioritizing its superficial appearance for World Cup The roar of construction reverberates through Mexico City’s Hidalgo metro station, a site that has become a viral sensation online.

Workers are seen frantically hammering at marble floors beneath a grand chandelier and rows of lamps, evoking scenes from "Harry Potter" or "Titanic."

The hurried efforts aim to complete the transformation before the FIFA World Cup opening ceremony on Thursday.

Locals navigating the bustling station frequently pause, pointing and laughing, often capturing images of the dramatic facelift that has captivated internet users.

This cosmetic overhaul, intended to present a polished image of the capital to an influx of global visitors, has simultaneously become a focal point for criticism.

Many argue it symbolizes a government prioritizing superficial appearances for World Cup fans over addressing the city's long-standing structural deficiencies.

The cosmetic makeover that authorities have attempted to give the capital as visitors arrive from around the globe also has become a symbol of criticisms that the government is prioritizing its superficial appearance for World Cup (Reuters)

"People make fun of it because it's a failed aesthetic; it doesn't make a lot of sense," commented Silvia Escamilla, 28, as she navigated the commuter crowds.

"All these renovations are like putting makeup on the city, because the infrastructure they could actually invest in just isn’t there."

For weeks, city workers have adorned walls and metro cars with cartoon axolotls, the mole salamander that serves as a local mascot.

People walk past scaffolding towards a platform at Hidalgo station (Reuters)

Bridges have been painted purple, and Mexican marigold flowers, traditionally associated with Day of the Dead celebrations, now bloom in public spaces.

The capital's 22 million residents, affectionately known as Chilangos, have playfully dubbed these changes the city's "axolotlization," sharing videos of flooded underpasses juxtaposed with freshly painted axolotl murals and crumbling stairs beside bright purple potholes.

Hidalgo station, located in the heart of downtown, has arguably generated the most online commentary.

The 22 million residents of the sprawling capital, known as Chilangos, have jokingly referred to the renovations as the city's “axolotlization” (Reuters)

When the chandelier and Victorian-style wall lamps were installed in May, social media users were quick to quip that authorities were attempting to imbue the gritty metro system with a European elegance.

This perceived incongruity sparked a wave of creative mockery. Residents began appearing at the station in elegant attire, filming themselves as they descended the marble stairs to classical music.

One social media influencer arrived dressed as the Beast from the classic Disney cartoon "Beauty and the Beast," while another donned a white wig and French military uniform as Napoleon Bonaparte.

A dancer holds a replica of the World Cup trophy as soccer fans stand along Reforma Avenue in Mexico City (Copyright 2026 The Associated Press. All rights reserved)

"May you have an elegant metro connection," declared one influencer, strolling through commuters in a tuxedo and top hat.

Another filmed herself selling pink dresses aboard a metro train, playfully shouting to passengers that the garments matched the "etiquette" of Metro Hidalgo.

Many more posed for photos beside the marble floors and walls, even amidst ongoing construction ahead of the tournament co-hosted by Mexico, the United States, and Canada.

While these jokes provided weeks of amusement, they also highlighted a more profound issue, according to Aldo Solano Rojas, a Mexico City art historian critical of the remodel.

Many more posed for photos beside the marble floors and walls, even amidst ongoing construction ahead of the tournament co-hosted by Mexico, the United States, and Canada (Copyright 2026 The Associated Press. All rights reserved.)

He argues that the failure to prioritize critical issues like the metro's deteriorating infrastructure and major roadway potholes demonstrates that the government "doesn't understand the real needs of the city."

"State presence, at its best, is reflected in well-maintained sidewalks and adequate transportation infrastructure that doesn't collapse every day," Solano Rojas asserted.

"It's not reflected in frivolous, superficial axolotl murals while the streets are flooding."

These criticisms emerge amid broader social unrest in Mexico City, with various movements – including the teachers' union and families of the country's 130,000 missing people – leveraging the World Cup's proximity to pressure authorities.

Mexico is regarded as an outsider for this summer’s tournament with bookmakers offering odds of around 66/1 for them to lift the trophy (Getty)

The government has also faced accusations of displacing sex workers and street vendors in an effort to "clean up" the streets.

Despite these tensions, city workers continued their frantic pace on Wednesday, racing to complete construction before the opening ceremony and first match.

Mirna Baranco, 46, viewed the renovations with a degree of fondness, though she chuckled at the sight of the chandelier above the Hidalgo construction workers.

"I've already seen it all over the place on Facebook, but not in real life," she remarked, nudging her boyfriend.

Baranco acknowledged the criticisms but suggested it wasn't entirely negative for authorities to make changes to attract international visitors.

She believes the World Cup has spurred local governments into necessary renovations, even if some elements seem out of place.

The changes, she concluded, show that "Mexico isn't just how others stereotype us, as a country with narcos. Mexico has a lot to give the world."

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