Kota Kinabalu: Sabahan mountaineer Jack Arrey Jaim etched his name into Malaysian climbing history after becoming one of the first two Malaysians to conquer Pakistan’s 6,100-metre Khusargang Peak, while proudly raising the Sabah flag and showcasing the traditional attire of his Dusun heritage at the summit.
Jack reached the summit at 8.07am Pakistan time (11.07am Malaysia time) on Aug 2 after a gruelling seven-day expedition through the rugged Karakoram mountain range.
Of the eight Malaysians who took part in the expedition, only two successfully reached the peak, with the other successful climber from the peninsula.
According to Jack, expedition organisers informed the team that they were the first Malaysians to have stood atop Khusargang Peak since climbing records began for the mountain. He also believes he is the first Sabahan to accomplish the feat.
Making the achievement even more meaningful, Jack donned the Batanga Ginontihan, the traditional attire of the Dusun Bundu Tuhan community in Ranau, upon reaching the summit as a tribute to his roots.
He said the gesture was intended to introduce Sabah’s rich cultural heritage to the international mountaineering community while honouring his identity as a son of Ranau.
“Climbing is not only about reaching great heights, but also about carrying our identity and where we come from wherever the journey takes us,” he said.
Located in Pakistan’s remote Gilgit-Baltistan region, Khusargang Peak rises 6,100 metres above sea level within the famed Karakoram range, home to some of the world’s highest and most technically demanding mountains.
Although not among the region’s famed 8,000-metre peaks such as K2, Khusargang presents formidable challenges with deep snow, sub-zero temperatures, unpredictable weather, high-altitude terrain and thin oxygen levels that test even experienced climbers.
Jack said the expedition demanded immense physical and mental resilience as climbers endured freezing temperatures, limited water supplies, the absence of basic facilities and the constant risk of Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS).
He expressed gratitude to expedition planner Nor Faizal Nordin, fellow climbers, mountain guides, family members and friends for their unwavering support and prayers throughout the expedition.
Describing the climb as more than simply conquering a mountain, Jack said it was a journey of perseverance, self-discovery and pushing beyond personal limits.
“Sabah in my heart, Malaysia on the world’s peaks,” he said.