Just a few kilometres from Corsica, the Italian island of Capraia is one of the Tuscan Archipelago’s best-kept secrets. Once home to a prison colony and now a protected natural haven, it has become a sought-after destination for its volcanic landscapes and hidden coves.
Among the three islands of the Tuscan Archipelago, Elba and its famous prisoner are by far the most well known. By comparison, neighbouring Giglio and Capraia feel far wilder and more untouched. Located 31 kilometres east of Corsica, Capraia is home to only around 300 residents. Long closed to visitors due to its former penal colony, the island is now a discreet paradise for lovers of nature and hiking.
A wild island between Corsica and Tuscany
Capraia is the third largest island in the Tuscan Archipelago, but also one of its most isolated. Lying just 31 kilometres from the Corsican coast and much farther from mainland Italy, it has a unique identity all of its own.
What makes the island so distinctive is undoubtedly its raw and unspoilt character, shaped by spectacular volcanic scenery, steep cliffs and fragrant Mediterranean scrubland teeming with wildlife. Until 1986, Capraia housed an agricultural penal colony, which severely restricted public access and helped preserve its natural environment for decades.
Even today, the island remains largely undeveloped. There are essentially just two inhabited areas: the small harbour, lively with colourful bars and restaurants, and the historic village built around Fort San Giorgio. The rest of the island is almost entirely wild, criss-crossed by old mule tracks that are particularly popular with hikers.
Spectacular volcanic landscapes
Capraia’s west coast, facing Corsica, is the island’s most dramatic. Remote and inaccessible in places, it hides sea caves and secluded coves that can only be reached by boat.
To the south lies Cala Rossa, a breathtaking site famous for its striking shades of volcanic red. The area is made up of layers of solidified magma — remnants of ancient eruptions that shaped the island some ten and one million years ago. The almost surreal scenery attracts geology enthusiasts and photographers alike.
Further east, Capraia’s harbour offers a completely different atmosphere, with its pastel-coloured houses, charming terraces and artisan boutiques.
What to do on the island of Capraia
Capraia is first and foremost a destination for nature lovers. The island offers several hiking trails that wind through the Mediterranean scrubland, leading visitors to former prison colony buildings, spectacular viewpoints and even Lake Stagnone.
Travellers can:
- explore coastal trails and old agricultural paths,
- discover the muretti a secco — traditional dry-stone walls recognised as UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage,
- go diving or snorkelling in exceptionally well-protected waters,
- take boat excursions to coves inaccessible on foot,
- sample local goat’s cheese, wine produced on the island, and specialities made from everlasting flower (immortelle), a plant typical of the maquis, in local artisan shops.
Unlike many Mediterranean islands, Capraia does not boast long stretches of fine sandy beaches. For swimming, two pontoons have been set up at Cala del Vecchio Porto and Cala Grotta. Those seeking greater seclusion can venture to Cala San Francesco, a quiet cove reached after a short walk.
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