Kashmir’s iconic bookstores: Sanctuary for the written word

17 May 2026 • 7:54 AM MYT
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Gulshan Books in Srinagar is a treasure trove for book lovers.

In April last year, bibliophiles across Kashmir went into mourning following the closure of The Bestseller, an iconic bookshop located at Lal Chowk in Srinagar. Its reopening six months later was driven by an intense online campaign, underscoring how the region retains a fierce devotion to its literary tradition despite the digital shift. Central to this heritage is Gulshan Books, a publishing powerhouse that has served as the bedrock of Kashmiri letters since 1932. It was founded during a period of intense political upheaval, where anti-colonial literature served as the intellectual platform for the movement against Dogra rule. The founder, Sheikh Mohammad Usman, inherited a rich literary legacy from his father and grandfather, who were pioneers in publishing. Sheikh Aijaz Ahmad, the current chairman, notes that the publishing house was built on a mission to democratise Kashmiri voices. “Since its inception, we have aimed to cultivate a publishing culture by providing a platform for budding writers who might otherwise be overlooked by giants like Penguin or HarperCollins,” he explains. Mostly catering to books in English, the publishing house boasts of a catalogue of rare and acclaimed works on history, politics, and architecture. It has preserved the legacies of scholars such as Walter Lawrence, Robert Thorp, GMD Sufi, Prem Nath Bazaz and ML Kapur, among others. Acclaimed novelist Mirza Waheed recalls the vital presence of such bookstores in his youth: “In my youth, Kashmir Book Shop stocked literature from across the world. It was where I first encountered Tolstoy, Chekhov, and the Brontes. While Gulshan specifically grew into its reputation later for me, I now count their editions, like Mohammad Ishaq Khan’s ‘Sufis of Kashmir’, among the most prized volumes on my shelves.” In 2022, Gulshan Books was forced to close its iconic Dal Lake branch, housed in a Nehru Park pavilion, after the government declined to extend its lease. Beyond logistics, the digital onslaught poses a threat. Rouf Ahmad, a staffer of six years, observes a sharp decline in physical sales. “Price is the main barrier; readers often opt for cheaper online listings or pirated PDFs,” he says. Yet, Rouf remains optimist, believing that the adverse health effects of prolonged screen time will eventually drive readers back to the comfort of paper. Resilience is now the brand’s hallmark. Gulshan Books has embraced a digital presence via Instagram and a dedicated web store. However, Sheikh Aijaz argues that digital presence isn’t enough in the absence of structural support. “The reading culture can be revived if the government establishes free public libraries,” he suggests, pointing to the success of their Dal Lake branch, which once offered 20,000 books for free browsing. Interestingly, a new ally has emerged in the form of Gen Z. Sehar Haqaq, a graduate of Islamia College, notes that while many young people initially visit the shop to create social media content, the “aesthetic” often leads to authentic engagement. “They come for the Instagram reels, but stay for the ideas,” she says. With over 100 new titles slated for release this year, Gulshan Books refuses to succumb to the shadows of AI or eBooks. Whether it remains a permanent fixture of Kashmir’s identity or fades under the pressure of technology remains to be seen. For now, it stands as a defiant sanctuary for the written word. Meanwhile, Saniyasnain Chiloo, owner of The Bestseller, can’t hide his emotions as he recalls how his bookshop was literally revived on public demand. “I was overwhelmed by the love and care people displayed towards our bookshop when we decided to shut it down. We reopened it because people in Kashmir don’t want bookstores to vanish completely,” he says. Outlets like The Bestseller provide them space where they can browse shelves, discuss books and spend quiet time away from screens, he adds. It’s an engagement that demands commitment from both sides. — The writer is an academic and book critic