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FROM the iconic Ampera Bridge and the mighty Musi River to giant Quranic carvings, intricate songket and seriously good food, Palembang deserves a place on your Indonesia travel list.
Indonesia has so much more to offer beyond the familiar destinations of Bali and Jakarta. With the Indonesian rupiah remaining relatively favourable for many Malaysian travellers, now is a good time to look beyond the usual tourist circuit and discover some of the country's lesser-explored cities.
One destination that deserves more attention is Palembang, the capital of South Sumatra. Steeped in history and culture, the city is perhaps best known for the mighty Musi River, the iconic Ampera Bridge and its legendary pempek. But spend a few days here and you will quickly discover that there is much more to Palembang than its famous landmarks and food.
Getting around Palembang
Getting around Palembang is relatively straightforward, with ride-hailing services offering a convenient way to move around the city by car, van or motorcycle.
However, one of the more interesting ways to experience the city is by taking its Light Rail Transit (LRT).
Built in preparation for the 2018 Asian Games, the Palembang LRT was Indonesia's first operational LRT system. It connects areas on both sides of the Musi River and passes the magnificent Ampera Bridge, offering passengers a different perspective of the city.
For visitors, it is also particularly convenient because the LRT connects Sultan Mahmud Badaruddin II International Airport with the city, providing an affordable alternative to taxis or private cars.
For an even more local experience, hop aboard a ketek, the traditional small motorised boats commonly seen along the Musi River. A river ride allows visitors to see riverside communities, boats and landmarks from a completely different perspective.
The experience becomes even more memorable when passing beneath the Ampera Bridge, where the sheer scale of Palembang's most recognisable landmark is best appreciated from the water.
What to see in Palembang
No trip to Palembang is complete without seeing the Ampera Bridge.
Built across the Musi River, the bridge has become the city's most recognisable symbol and a favourite backdrop for photographs. One of the best ways to appreciate it is from the many cafés and restaurants that have emerged along the river.
Kopi AD, a floating café, is one such spot where visitors can sit back with a drink or meal while enjoying an unobstructed view of the bridge.
Try visiting around sunset, when the sky takes on warmer hues and the bridge begins to illuminate, creating a particularly atmospheric scene along the Musi River.
Palembang is also home to one of its most remarkable religious and artistic attractions — Al-Qur'an Al-Akbar, also known as Bayt Al-Qur'an Al-Akbar.
The complete Quran is carved onto enormous panels of tembesu wood, with all 30 juz presented across 630 wooden pages. The massive work incorporates intricate decorative elements inspired by the artistic traditions of Palembang, with around 40 cubic metres of wood used in its creation.
Located in Gandus, the attraction offers visitors an opportunity to appreciate both the religious significance of the Quran and the extraordinary craftsmanship involved in creating it.
History buffs should make time to visit the Ong Boen Tjiet House, a historic riverside residence that offers a glimpse into Palembang's multicultural past.
The traditional house is associated with the city's Chinese community and reflects the historical relationship between Palembang's Chinese and Malay cultures.
Reaching the house by ketek makes the experience even more interesting, as visitors get to approach the historic residence from the Musi River — much like communities in Palembang once lived and conducted their activities along the water.
Palembang's long and fascinating history is best understood by visiting some of its museums.
Museum Sultan Mahmud Badaruddin II, located near the city's historic centre, explores the history and heritage of Palembang, including its connection to the former Palembang Sultanate.
Meanwhile, Museum Balaputra Dewa offers a broader look at South Sumatra's cultural and historical heritage, including archaeological collections, traditional houses and artefacts associated with the region's past.
Together, the museums provide useful context for understanding the city beyond its modern-day attractions.
One of Palembang's most interesting historic neighbourhoods is Kampung Kapitan, a former residential compound associated with the Chinese Captain, or Kapitan Cina, system established during Dutch colonial rule.
The Kapitan Cina was an official appointed to administer and represent the local Chinese community. The first captain associated with the area was Tjoa Hin, appointed around 1855.
Today, Kampung Kapitan offers a fascinating glimpse into Palembang's multicultural history and the longstanding Chinese influence on the city.
For a dose of history and legend, make your way to Bukit Seguntang.
The hill is regarded as one of Palembang's important historical and cultural sites and is closely associated with the legends and heritage of the Sriwijaya era.
It is also considered an important archaeological and historical area, making it a worthwhile stop for travellers interested in discovering the ancient roots of Palembang.
For Muslim travellers, Palembang also offers several interesting Islamic landmarks.
Masjid Agung Palembang, or the Great Mosque of Palembang, is one of the city's most important landmarks. Its impressive architecture reflects the city's layered history and Islamic heritage, while its location in the historic heart of Palembang makes it easy to combine with other sightseeing stops.
Another fascinating place to visit is the Chinese Muslim Mosque, which reflects the multicultural character of Palembang and the longstanding presence of Chinese Muslims in the city.
Where to eat in Palembang
You simply cannot visit Palembang without eating pempek.
This iconic local speciality is a savoury fish-based snack traditionally made with fish and tapioca, then served with the distinctive dark, sweet-and-sour cuko sauce.
There are several varieties to try, including the popular pempek kapal selam, which contains an egg inside.
For a slightly more upscale experience, head to Pempek Beringin, while Pempek Minah offers a more affordable option that is particularly popular among locals.
Whichever you choose, don't leave Palembang without trying its most famous culinary creation.
For Malaysians who know Pagi Sore as a popular nasi Padang restaurant in Jakarta, the restaurant actually traces its origins back to Palembang, where its first branch was established.
That makes visiting the original Palembang outlet a worthwhile experience for fans of its familiar spread of Indonesian dishes, from vegetables and curries to richly flavoured meats and other nasi Padang favourites.
For something a little different, head to Angkringan Rumah Limas, a restaurant built over the water along the Musi River.
The experience is as much about the setting as it is about the food. One particularly fun feature is the opportunity to fish for your own dinner — although you will naturally need a little patience.
Surrounded by the river and traditional atmosphere, it offers a relaxed way to spend an evening away from the city's busier streets.
Palembang's culinary heritage extends far beyond pempek.
Head to Harum, a popular destination for traditional cakes and desserts, where visitors can discover a variety of local sweet treats that may not be as familiar to foreign travellers.
The family-run business is particularly worth visiting for those who enjoy discovering traditional recipes and flavours passed down through generations.
Come with an appetite — choosing just one can be difficult.
Why not take a little culinary detour while you are in Palembang?
Seblak Meera Palembang offers visitors a taste of Sundanese cuisine, adding another regional flavour to the Indonesian food adventure.
Known for its spicy, savoury and comforting flavours, seblak is a fun option for travellers who want to venture beyond Palembang's own culinary specialities.
Finally, don't leave Palembang without trying mie celor, another local speciality.
Unlike many noodle dishes, mie celor features thick noodles served in a rich, creamy broth traditionally made with coconut milk, shrimp stock and spices, often accompanied by prawns, egg and bean sprouts.
For a taste of one of Palembang's most beloved noodle dishes, head to Mie Celor 26 Ilir, one of the city's well-known names associated with this comforting speciality.
Where to shop
If you're looking for a meaningful souvenir, make sure songket is on your shopping list.
Palembang is renowned for its beautifully woven songket, a traditional textile associated with intricate metallic threads and elaborate motifs.
Today, songket can be found in everything from traditional garments and scarves to modern fashion pieces and accessories.
There is a wide range to choose from, from painstakingly handmade pieces that can command premium prices to more affordable machine-produced versions.
Whether you are buying it as a keepsake or intending to wear it, bringing home a piece of Palembang songket is like taking a little piece of the city's heritage with you.
Palembang may be steeped in history, but it is certainly not short of modern retail therapy.
Some of the city's popular shopping destinations include Palembang Icon, Palembang Indah Mall and Palembang Trade Centre (PTC).
PTC is also home to Mulia Gold & Jewellery, a well-known destination for those looking to shop for gold and jewellery.
Whether you're looking for fashion, souvenirs, local products or simply somewhere to escape the heat, Palembang's malls are worth checking out.
Where to stay
After a full day of sightseeing and eating your way through the city, choosing the right hotel can make all the difference.
For travellers looking for sleek and affordable accommodation, 1O1 Palembang Rajawali and Harper Palembang are worth considering. Both offer modern accommodation and convenient access to the city, making them practical choices for visitors who want comfort without stretching the travel budget.
For those looking for something a little more indulgent, Novotel Palembang offers a different experience.
Unlike many conventional city hotels, the property has the feel of a resort, with spacious open areas, impressive architecture, expansive pool facilities and beautifully landscaped surroundings.
Its location is also convenient, sitting close to Palembang Trade Centre, making it a practical base for exploring the city while providing a more relaxed retreat at the end of the day.
Palembang may not immediately spring to mind when travellers think about an Indonesian holiday, but that is precisely what makes it interesting.
Beyond the iconic Ampera Bridge and famous pempek, the city offers centuries of history, multicultural heritage, Islamic landmarks, traditional crafts, river adventures and a surprisingly diverse food scene.
It is a destination where a morning can begin with a ride on the LRT, continue with a visit to a historic riverside neighbourhood, turn into an afternoon spent shopping for songket and end with a bowl of mie celor or a plate of pempek.
So, the next time you're planning an Indonesian getaway, perhaps skip the usual destinations for a while and put Palembang on your list.
You may just discover one of Sumatra's most underrated city breaks.