Anyone with an interest in skincare will probably have come across retinol by now. The much-loved ingredient has earned cult status for its ability to improve the look and texture of skin, from smoothing fine lines to promoting a more even complexion. But while there’s plenty to like about retinol, it’s not an ingredient to dive into without knowing how to use it properly.
In fact, the European Commission has capped the concentration of retinol at 0.05 per cent for body lotions, and 0.3 per cent for other leave-on products like face and hand products. The move is intended to reduce the risk of unwanted effects, which can include redness, irritation and purging when retinol isn’t introduced or used carefully.
So, what does retinol actually do, and why is it such a staple in skincare if it can also cause irritation? To get to the bottom of it, we asked four skincare experts to explain the benefits, the potential downsides and everything else you need to know about using retinol.
What is retinol?
“Retinol is a type of retinoid that is derived from Vitamin A,” shares Aruj Javid, Lookfantastic’s in-house pharmacist. “It is a very sought-out skin beneficial ingredient in the skincare market due to its ability to help with many skin issues, such as a loss of firmness, fine lines and wrinkles often experienced by maturer-looking skin, acne-prone skin, an uneven skin tone and generally skin that tends to appear dull and lacks radiance”.
Dr Derrick Phillips, a consultant dermatologist specialising in acne, rosacea, rashes and skin cancer, adds that “almost everyone can benefit from having a retinoid in their skincare routine, and the key is to start low and gradually build up over time”.
What does retinol do?
“There are multiple benefits to using retinol within your routine,” explains Dr Jinah Yoo, a consultant dermatologist, medical director and founder of the Maylin x Dr Jinah Yoo dermatology clinic. “It reduces wrinkles and fine lines as it stimulates collagen production which helps to improve skin elasticity and firmness, ultimately reducing the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines. It also improves overall skin texture when used regularly, resulting in a smoother, more even skin tone by promoting cell turnover and exfoliation.”
Dr Hiba Injibar, consultant dermatologist and founder of Dermasurge Clinic added that retinol has been found to “help address concerns such as hyperpigmentation”. So, if that’s a key concern of yours, it looks like retinol could also be just what you’re looking for.
How to use retinol
As retinol can be an irritant, how and when you use it is a key factor. Javid stresses that the most important thing when using retinol is to introduce it to your skincare routine slowly. “If you are trying retinol for the first time, start at a lower percentage and then build up accordingly,” she says. “Remember you only need a pea-sized amount each time you apply retinol.” We’ve included a list of all the expert-recommended products below, beginner-friendly options, included.
Once you’ve found the perfect product, “begin using it two to three times a week, gradually increasing frequency as tolerated,” recommends Dr Injibar. And when it comes to applying it, at night is always best. “Wash your face with a gentle cleanser and pat it dry before applying retinol – you always want to apply it to clean, dry skin as this helps to ensure maximum absorption of the product,” adds Dr Yoo.
“Use a pea-sized amount and gently massage it onto your face and neck. To help prevent dryness and irritation, follow up with a moisturiser once the retinol has fully absorbed into your skin,” Dr Yoo continues. And remember, “it is essential that you use a sunscreen of SPF30 or higher every morning as retinol can increase skin sensitivity to sunlight”. Plus, it is always advised to do a patch test before introducing a skin ingredient or product to your skin routine, especially if it is your first time.
Can you use hyaluronic acid, niacinamide or salicylic acid with retinol?
Of course, many of us have a range of skincare products all targeting different concerns. While vitamin C brightens, hyaluronic acid hydrates and AHA’s and BHA’s slough away dead skin cells so your skin is soft and supple. But as retinol is an active ingredient, you do have to be careful with what you layer on top or underneath it.
Dr Yoo stresses that it’s best to avoid combining retinol with other active ingredients as this can cause “extreme irritation”. This is why the experts advise applying retinol to a cleansed face and applying only a moisturiser on top to help hydrate the skin. So, best to use your vitamin C serums in the morning, retinol at night, two to three times per week, and your other favourite skincare serums on the days in between to avoid any crossover.
Although, as we all know, sometimes moisturisers aren’t all that simple, so make sure to double-check what’s included in the ingredients list. What Dr Yoo means by active ingredients are ones that have been scientifically proven to have an effect on the skin – think Vitamin C, salicylic acid and glycolic acid. So it’s best to leave a good amount of time in between using these products and retinol, i.e., one in the morning, one in the evening or on alternate days. Hyaluronic acid and niacinamide get a big thumbs up however, despite being active ingredients, they’re gentle enough and help to hydrate the skin, meaning they can even lessen the drying effects of retinol.
What retinol products do these experts recommend?
For Javid, the CeraVe resurfacing retinol serum (£18.80, Lookfantastic.com) is a great beginner-friendly retinol, while Ole Henriksen’s double rewind 0.3 per cent pro-grade retinol serum (£59, Cultbeauty.co.uk) is best used for those comfortable with the ingredient.
Dr Yoo recommends Skinceuticals retinol 0.3 corrective treatment (£85, Lookfantastic.com) and budget-friendly The Ordinary retinol serum (£9, Cultbeauty.co.uk). ZO Skin Health wrinkle texture and repair retinol (£127.99, Faceteethsmile.shop) was Dr Injibar’s pick. And Medik8’s crystal retinal 6 (£69, Lookfantastic.com) got Dr Phillips’ seal of approval.
Meet the experts
- Aruj Javid: Lookfantastic’s in-house pharmacist
- Dr Derrick Phillips: Consultant dermatologist
- Dr Jinah Yoo: Consultant dermatologist, medical director and founder of the Maylin x Dr Jinah Yoo dermatology clinic.
- Dr Hiba Injibar: Consultant dermatologist and founder of Dermasurge Clini
Want more retinol info? Take a look at our guide to the best ones to buy
