AFTER spending more than 40 hours aboard a bus on the Maharlika Highway from Manila to Davao City, I finally reached Surigao City, the gateway to Mindanao.
I had wanted to get off the bus and spend a few days exploring this northeastern city, known as the “City of Island Adventures.” But with another bus waiting to take me farther south to South Cotabato, Surigao would have to wait.
Even so, it was easy to see why the city deserves more than just a brief stopover.
For many travelers, Surigao City is simply the entry point to Mindanao. In reality, it is a destination in itself, offering a rich blend of history, culture, and natural attractions.
Separated from the Visayas by only 11 nautical miles across the Surigao Strait, the city serves as the main gateway to northeastern Mindanao and nearby island destinations.
Its location at the meeting point of the Pacific Ocean, the Surigao Strait, and the Bohol Sea, made it strategically important long before the arrival of the Spanish.
Founded as the port town of Banahao in 1655, Surigao eventually became the administrative, military, and ecclesiastical center of a vast territory stretching into what are now Agusan and northern Davao. The city’s present name is believed to have been derived from the Mandayan word suligao, meaning “spring water.”
Surigao also played an important role in Philippine history.
On Dec. 26, 1898, it became the site of the first official raising of the Philippine flag in Mindanao. Nearly half a century later, on Oct. 24 and 25, 1944, the waters off Surigao became the scene of the historic Battle of Surigao Strait, one of the decisive naval engagements that helped pave the way for the liberation of the Philippines during World War II.
Today, visitors can still explore these chapters of history while discovering the city’s pebble beaches, caves, mangrove forests, and coastal scenery.
Getting there
Although Surigao City is more than 1,100 kilometers (km) from Manila, the journey is an adventure in itself.
Motorists can drive via the Maharlika Highway, passing through Southern Luzon before taking the roll-on/roll-off (RoRo) ferry from Matnog, Sorsogon to Allen, Northern Samar. From there, the route continues through Samar, crosses the 2.16-km San Juanico Bridge into Leyte, proceeds to Southern Leyte, and ends with another ferry crossing to Surigao City. Total travel time is approximately 40 hours.
A faster alternative is to fly to Butuan City and take a four-hour bus or van ride to Surigao City. Travelers may also fly directly from Cebu to Surigao or take a fast craft via Maasin.
A city steeped in history
Among Surigao City’s must-visit landmarks is the City Hall, built in 1950 on the site of the old Casa Real, where the Philippine flag was first raised in Mindanao. A historical marker and flagpole commemorate the event.
Another important stop is the Battle of Surigao Strait Memorial and Museum in Punta Bilar, Lipata. The museum houses photographs, scale models of American and Japanese warships, and memorabilia from the historic naval battle. Outside stands a memorial overlooking the Surigao Strait, alongside Punta Bilar Lighthouse.
The Surigao del Norte Provincial Capitol is another architectural highlight. Designed in the style of the Misamis Occidental Capitol in Oroquieta City, both structures trace their origins to plans by National Artist Juan Arellano. Within the capitol grounds is the Baybay Surigaonon Museum, which showcases the province’s culture, history, and heritage.
Other heritage sites worth visiting include San Nicolas de Tolentino Cathedral, founded by the Augustinian Recollects in 1754; the El Honor al Trabajo Monument, erected in 1893; and the city’s own Luneta Park.
A landscape shaped by nature
Surigao’s mineral-rich geology has long made it one of the country’s major sources of gold, copper, and nickel.
The same geological history also created many of the area’s natural attractions, including the pebble beaches of Mabua and Ipil, the limestone caves of Silop and Mapawa, and the mangrove forests and limestone islets of Day-asan.
Life along the boulevard
No visit to Surigao City is complete without spending time along the Surigao City Boulevard.
For centuries, this stretch of coastline served as a busy harbor where traders and fishermen gathered. Today, it has evolved into a waterfront promenade where residents and visitors come to relax, exercise, and watch the sunset over the Surigao Strait.
The city’s ferry terminals are located nearby, making the boulevard the starting point for trips to Siargao, Dinagat Islands, Cebu, Southern Leyte, and other destinations across the Visayas and Mindanao.
As evening falls, the boulevard comes alive with food stalls serving local delicacies and Filipino street food, making it one of the city’s most vibrant gathering places.
Surigao City may be known as the gateway to Mindanao, but it deserves to be more than just a place to pass through. Its blend of history, heritage, natural attractions, and relaxed waterfront atmosphere makes it a worthwhile destination before continuing deeper into the island.
Sometimes, the best journeys begin by slowing down.
